I bought some synthetic rubber hose at 1/4, or less, of the price Nissan
charges and it's the same stuff Nissan uses. I sold some to others and all
were happy. I'll have to get the catalog tonight and tell you what it is.
Buy a few feet and save some for use in a few years :)
To bleed the clucth there is no need to crack the line where it joins the
master as clutch masters don't need to be bled. I fill up the master and
keep the slave cracked open and keep putting in hydraulic fluid until it
starts dripping out. I then close up the slave and use my miteyvac to bleed
all the air out. Of course you can use a helper to pump the pedal instead.
Just keep bleeding until the pedal is firm.
Brake masters should be bench bled or in the worst case bled in the car
which is why there's a bleeder on them. I've replaced a lot of clutch
systems in 20+ years and never had a problem doing it my way.
Mike
----- Original Message -----
From: "Amy & Erik" <erikandamy@integraonline.com>
To: <datsun-roadsters@autox.team.net>
Sent: Tuesday, July 17, 2001 12:01 AM
Subject: Couple of questions
> List
> I have a new valve cover gasket for my 2L. Should I use RTV in between
the
> cover and gasket (in the groove)?
> I am having trouble finding small enough fuel line to replace the line
> between the floats and the jets. Everything is too thick and stiff. Any
> suggestions for non-fuel line that can handle gas?
> I also received my new clutch master cylinder. I have never bled a clutch
> before, and I haven't yet looked underneath to see if I can bleed it from
> below. None of my books mention clutch hydraulics. Can anyone offer
> pointers before I dive in?
> (That one new shiny part is really going to look out of place under the
> hood.)
>
> Thanks in advance
> Erik Smeby
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