The thermo sensor I bought from Flex-a-lite goes into the upper rad hose and
works via a capillary tube. Adjustable too. I also installed an illuminated
overide switch to turn it off and on at will.
Mike
----- Original Message -----
From: "Ronnie Day" <ronday@home.com>
To: "John Schmitt" <jschmi7@us.ibm.com>; "Roadster List"
<datsun-roadsters@autox.team.net>
Sent: Thursday, April 26, 2001 11:47 AM
Subject: Re: Push or Pull electric fan
> >First, does it really matter if the fan is push or pull type. I read,
in
> >the digest, that pull works better. Is there any reason for this? I saw
> >one referance to a JC Whitney fan, which one? Are there any other
> >recommendations? How does the thermostat connect into the colling system?
>
> Putting the fan behind the radiator doesn't block airflow like putting it
> in front does. If the radiator is marginal to begin with that could be a
> problem. If it has at least some excess capacity it probably won't make a
> significant difference. As has been said several times in the thread, the
> fan is really only needed when the car is stopped or in stop and go
> traffic. I haven't looked at the JCW catalog, but I'd stick with a major
> brand, wherever you buy it.
>
> The thermostats that I've seen are surface mounted on the radiator
> itself, although I wouldn't be surprised to see one that plugs into an
> extra fitting in the engine's thermostat housing. There are some later
> (lower) thermostat housings for L-motors that are popular because they
> already have extra fittings. Don't know if they'd be usable on an R or U
> motor.
>
> I'd suggest making sure that the engine water passages are clear, the
> water pump is working properly and the radiator is not clogged or leaking
> before doing anything else if there's a cooling problem. Reducing fan
> noise is a big plus, too. Redline also sells a product called Water
> Wetter, which I suspect is a surfactant that increases the heat
> conductivity of the water/antifreeze mix. It's not snake oil either, it
> really works.
>
> I guess one of the root problems with all of these older cars is their
> age. Many things are just wearing out due to age. You've got to be
> careful with so called new parts, too. I bought a new radiator for one of
> the 510s in Maryland not long before I left to move back down here in
> '90. I left immediately and didn't know that the car was overheating
> until a month later when I went back up to DC to move the household stuff
> and family down. Turned out the radiator was full of solder and I had to
> have a new core installed after we arrived down here. The shop that
> replaced the core said that was an all too common problem with offshore
> parts. Bummer.
>
> FWIW, Ron
>
> Ronnie Day
> ronday@home.com
> Dallas/Ft. Worth
> '71 510 2-dr (Prepared Class Autocrosser)
> '73 510 2-dr (Street Toy)
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