Steve Landuyt asked - I'm restoring a '69 2000 and would like to move the
alternator to the passenger side of engine. Can you suggest a source for the
pre-smog bracket?
Steve, I haven't done this to my car, yet. below is the FAQ on this subject
written by the Roadster Guru, Tom Walter, about 6 years ago. I did a recent
search on the part numbers included below on the nissanautoparts.com
database and they came up as "avalible".
----- Tom's FAQ --------
ALTERNATOR RELOCATION
The alternator placement on the 68-70 Datsun 2000's is not the most
convenient for service. The alternator will typically need work sooner than
necessary from excessive heat, and the anti-freeze that gets dumped into it,
when changing the lower radiator hose.
RELOCATING THE STOCK SINGLE FOOT ALTERNATOR:
If you have '68 and later 2000, with the alternator mounted under the lower
radiator hose, it is a simple matter of swapping it to the distributor side
of the engine. You will need two new parts, and modify the existing support
bracket previously used for the smog pump:
Alternator bracket: 11710-25500
Alternator adjustment arm: 11715-25500
MODIFIED: the front "triangle bracket" with the alternator bolt hole enlarge
from 8mm to 10mm. To fit correctly the two bolts holding the triangle mount
to the engine will have to be "spaced" forward a small fraction of an inch.
I used washers under the mount to provide the correct spacing.
The alternator location will preclude the use of the smog pump, but those
units seldom lasted more than 10,000 miles, anyway. I do believe in keeping
your engine tuned and in good condition, to reduce emissions.
The early '68 wiring harness was designed to have the alternator on the
right side of the engine, but the regulator to alternator wires were
lengthened to reach the alternator on the left (manifold) side of the
engine. You can leave the harness intact, and bring it back to connect to
the alternator on the new location. The '69 and '70 harnesses are different,
so you'll have to lengthen the wires to go back around the front and reach
the alternator.
USING A LATER MODEL ALTERNATOR on your '68 - '70 2000
While the stock alternator is fine for a total original roadster, the 300
Watt (25 amp) rating leaves much to be desired when running a stereo on a
cold, stormy night with every accessory on. A late model Datsun alternator
with an external regulator is a good candidate to replace the stock unit.
There are two 50 Amp units available that fit our needs, both being Hitachi
LT150 (50 Amp). The first has 8mm mounting holes in the "ears", commonly
will be listed as a '70-73 Datsun 510 with A/C (stock units are 35Amp). The
second, 23100-P4502, has 10mm mounting holes. The larger mounting holes
would require drilling the mounting brackets out to 10mm, and using larger
bolts. The adjusting bolt hole is 8mm x 1.25 in either case.
Use the stock smog pump support bracket, and front "triangle" piece with
washers between it and the front cover to obtain proper spacing.
The adjustment arm is a stock item from the '67 1/2 2000 (11715-25500) The
front triangle pieces needs to be removed, two thin washers placed between
it and the front cover, then reinstalled.
You will have to modify the original alternator connection, as the later
alternators used to 6mm studs for the "A" and "E" (power and ground leads).
On the case of the alternator is a "T" connection. The connector on the stem
of the T is for the "F" (Field). The top of the T is the "N" neutral
connector. A wrecking yard is a good place to search for a matching type of
connector. A stiff piece of wire can be used to release the female
connectors from the plastic block, then slide in the new wires.
Once everything is bolted up, make sure the alternator pulley; water pump
pulley; and engine pulley all line up. If they don't then the fan belt will
be "thrown off" at higher rpm.
THE REGULATOR:
Regulators are the same on all Datsun's from '65 to '79 (Datsun went to an
internal regulator from '80 onwards).
Datsuns, without an ammeter, have an warning lamp to warn of alternator
failure. The circuitry for the "ALT" light is built into all regulators. If
you wanted to add the warning lamp, it is a simple matter of adding the
bulb! Not a bad idea if your ammeter, like mine, has died an early death.
To identify the connectors on the regulator, place the regulator on the work
bench, with the connector facing towards you. With the off set on top
the top row of connectors are: "N" "A" "lamp"
the bottom row of connectors are: "E" "F" "ign"
JC Whitney still list a regulator for $9.00 which is fairly inexpensive. I
haven't heard of anyone having problems using them, as they are a sealed
electronic unit and seem to be very reliable. [I just ordered two, time will
tell if they are reliable - TW]
FUSIBLE LINK:
Looking through the wrecking yards you will notice a lead off the alternator
"A" terminal that looks a little different; it is a FUSIBLE link. While not
stock on roadsters, it is highly recommended to keep the wiring harness from
destroying itself if the alternator shorts out. Cheap insurance is always
better than a larger repair bill!
With the larger alternator, 50 Amp and above, you have to take into
consideration the wiring and ammeter should be modified for the higher
current.
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