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Re: OT-Metal Cutting

To: Daniel Neuman <dneuman@quark.sfsu.edu>
Subject: Re: OT-Metal Cutting
From: Russell Southwell <rulee@cityscape.net>
Date: Fri, 23 Feb 2001 09:07:11 -0600
Daniel, if just one tool then a sawzall is the answer, a portaband will only 
cur into
plate steel or material a few inches then you bottom out against the saw, this 
is using
the deep throat saw. it would be physicaly imposible to cut out designs with a 
porta-
band saw. so a sawzall wth metal blades, or a good sabersaw with a good metal
blade seems about the best you can do on a budget. on cuttiing designs in plate 
stock you
would want to drill a starting hole if for the blade if you can't start at the 
edge of the
material.
a porta bandsaw won't do what you want on designs though it would bottom out 
after three
inches or so if it didn't catch and bend the blade.hth
Russ Southwell 70 1600

Daniel Neuman wrote:

> Hello,
>         Man there is just never a easy answer is there.... I REALLY can not
> afford a plasma cutter.  What I need is one tool that will work on rectangular
> and round tubing and on flat (up to 3/8") metal.  Mostly I will be cutting
> regular mild steel.  I would like to do some 'artwork' type stuff in 
>stainless.
>         It sounds like a bandsaw is the best comprimise.  I was originally
> hoping that one of the variable speed benchtop bandsaws might be able to  do
> all this??  What do you think?? Do I have to get an expensive floor models or
> will a cheaper <200 bucks model do the job??
>                 Daniel 69 2000
>                 SF CA
>
> > Daniel, as you have learned with the  hammer/drill episode, the proper tool 
>for the
> > proper job makes thiings goe much easier aand faster.
> > a hand held power band saw will travel on you when cuttiing even if kept in 
>perfect
> > adjustment, (rubbers wear out, rollers get loose) you have to usethe proper 
>blade
> > a blade for carbon steel will wear out in a couple cuts on stainless.
> > an oxy/acetalyene torch is no good for stainless with out proper shielding 
>stainless
> >
> > sugars on you( turns black and grainy).
> > a good chop saw cuts staiinless well but the blade will flex and travel 
>with too
> > much
> > pressure.
> > a floor mounted band saw is good if properly mainttained, and the proper 
>blade
> > selection.
> > Plasma arc is great if properly maintained , but will not precisley cut 
>tubing, if
> > too large.
> > and needs a supply of nozzels and shields, and an air supply.
> > all these thiinngs will need a list of consumables, ie; blades nozzels, 
>cutoff whls
> > etc.
> > also when working stainless its best to learn the ideosychrancies(sp) of 
>the beast,
> > draws when welding , sugars when not shielded, corrodes when you use a 
>carbon
> > contaminated brush on it, welds turn pink when finished(heat just right)
> > which type of stainless Austentenic or Marstentenic? grade 302 308 316 
>404etc
> > get yourself a good book on weldiing stainless and practice makes perfect.
> > bottoom line is proper tool for proper job.
> > Russ Southwell 70 1600

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