Daniel, as you have learned with the hammer/drill episode, the proper tool for
the
proper job makes thiings goe much easier aand faster.
a hand held power band saw will travel on you when cuttiing even if kept in
perfect
adjustment, (rubbers wear out, rollers get loose) you have to usethe proper
blade
a blade for carbon steel will wear out in a couple cuts on stainless.
an oxy/acetalyene torch is no good for stainless with out proper shielding
stainless
sugars on you( turns black and grainy).
a good chop saw cuts staiinless well but the blade will flex and travel with too
much
pressure.
a floor mounted band saw is good if properly mainttained, and the proper blade
selection.
Plasma arc is great if properly maintained , but will not precisley cut tubing,
if
too large.
and needs a supply of nozzels and shields, and an air supply.
all these thiinngs will need a list of consumables, ie; blades nozzels, cutoff
whls
etc.
also when working stainless its best to learn the ideosychrancies(sp) of the
beast,
draws when welding , sugars when not shielded, corrodes when you use a carbon
contaminated brush on it, welds turn pink when finished(heat just right)
which type of stainless Austentenic or Marstentenic? grade 302 308 316 404etc
get yourself a good book on weldiing stainless and practice makes perfect.
bottoom line is proper tool for proper job.
Russ Southwell 70 1600
Daniel Neuman wrote:
> Hello All,
> As Irene and I are getting more into metal work (custom tubular stain
> less steel bumpers anyone??) I find that we need something better to make
> reasonable precision cuts in metal. Right now we use a hacksaw and 4" right
> angle grinder with cutoff wheel and a tubing cutter. We will be cutting round
> and square tubing, plate steel and maybe some solid round/square rod.
>Ususally
> the metal will be less than 1/8" but sometimes 1/4" might be needed.
> Can a 'cheap' <200USD band saw do this type of work?? Does anybody
> have any other idea of what Ican use to cut this type of metal??
>
> thanks,
> Daniel 69 2000
>
> Oh, I know that you were all worried but I got the tubing bender bolted to the
> garage floor just fine. I used progressivly bigger carbide tipped masonary
>bits
> to go up to the 3/4" final size. To get thru the rock I just used an old dull
> masonary bit and held it with a pair of needle nose vise grips and wacked it
> with a hammer. Hammer drill-bah. I used lag-bolts and it appears to be
>working
> just fine.
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