Bill (and group),
I was wondering if you remembered specifically what diameter the original
oil gallery diameters, or what diameter you drilled everything out to.
I've got a spare 3 main block that I'm going to put together as a spare
race motor, and I'm trying to figure out if the right mods have been made to
the block and crank already.
Thanks in advance,
> I went back to the archives:
> <http://www.listquest.com/lq/search.html?ln=datsunroadsters> and searched
> for some posts I knew I had written on this very subject when I had the
> problem. These were in response to a Sam Turner, who was suffering the same
> as I had been and you are now. I have since sold the car (and engine) which
> was the focus of these posts....still running strong. Don't know what
> became of Sam and his car.
>
>> So, what do you do? Well, here's what I am currently
>> doing. Start with
>> carefull engine assembly. Clearances should be checked
>> with a dial bore
>> gauge, not plastic. I run 2-3/1000th on both the rods
>> and the mains. The
>> rods should be closer to 2, mains can be slightly
>> looser. Remember that
>> the specs (rod and main journal diameters, and hence,
>> bearings) for a
>> 5-main R-16 crank are the same as the U-20. NO
>> runout!-you want it staight
>> as an arrow.
>>
>> I cross-drill and chamfer the rod journals and #1, 3
>> and 5 main. Lastly,
>> I've opened the hole in the block that feeds the
>> center main ~30% bigger
>> (and the hole in the bearing shell). This hint is
>> derived from a book on
>> the four cylinder L-series motors which fed the rods
>> off the #2 and #4 main
>> (Frank Honsowetz, How to Modify Your Nissan/Datsun
>> OHC Engine).
>>
>> I use ARP rod bolts to a Chevy big block 3/8"
>> (ARP-135-6002) and torque
>> rods and main caps to U-20 specs.
>>
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