Actually I think the motor oil manufacturers, synthetic and conventional,
all are very conservative in their reccomendations. A few years ago there
was a study of New York City taxis where they went to a (I think) 10,000
mile interval and could find no difference in wear. Where it can make a
difference is in very cold or very hot conditions. It flows well at
extremely low temperatures and stands up to very high temps. without
boiling off the lighter fractions. I never approach those extremes, and
most of us won't so we use it because it's convenient or we just want the
'best' and that isn't all bad either.
On the other hand conventional oil is cheap, easy to change, and even if it
isn't absolutely necessary to do it every 3000 miles it gives us something
to do and it can't hurt.
Would probably stay away from Mobil I, at least the lower viscosities, due
to leakage problems. When it first came out we had LOTS of returns due to
oil leaks. Most of us have enought little black puddles under our cars as
it is.
Ray
68 1600
68 2000
At 04:59 PM 01/07/2000 -0800, Daniel Neuman wrote:
>Hello All,
>I know the synthetics are great and all. But will they work in a roadster??
>Why is the oil change time so short?? 6 months is it?? How would switching
>to Mobil one change that?? Or is there something 'special' about the U-20's
>that require the regular oil changes??
> Daniel 69 2000
> SF CA
>
>> I've used Mobil 1 in my cars since it came out in 1976. Mainly because I
>> worked for Mobil at the time and now because I'm in sales, drive a lot, and
>> it is nice to change oil only every 25,000 (saves time). Used it in a 77
>> Datsun 810 for 150,000 and a 89 Volvo 240 for 240,000 miles. No problems
>> in either car and even at a change interval of 25,000 absolutley zero
sludge.
>>
>> I don't use it in either of the roadsters as they have enough trouble
>> keeping oil on the correct side of the rear main seal.
>>
>> Ray
>>
>> 68 1600
>> 68 2000
>>
>> At 11:11 PM 12/26/1999 -0500, Rob Robinson wrote:
>> >I've used Mobil1 15w50 in my 2000 since the last overhaul...about 5000
>> >miles. Changed it every 500 or so. Yeah, seems like overkill, but a
>> >substantial portion of the run time is spent at full throttle/high rpm, or
>> >else sitting in my back yard between autocrosses. I just change it twice a
>> >year.
>> >
>> >Yes, I do mean "since overhaul", including break in. The idea that
synthetic
>> >oil is "too slick" to seat rings/bearings etc is not entirely
>> >correct.Synthetic oil is almost certainly a "slicker" lubricant, and it
>> >certainly flows better, thus making leaks much more pronounced. I've heard
>> >many engine builders swear that mineral oil must be used during break
>> >in...but the funny thing is, many manufacturers deliver new cars with
>> >synthetic oil installed at the factory. GM, Lotus, and Nissan to name a
few.
>> >(I was told this by a Mobil1 rep who spoke to our local SCCA chapter a few
>> >years ago, and verified it later in conversations with dealers)
>> >
>> >Non-Roadster content below....
>> >
>> >I use Mobil1 10w30 at 3k intervals on my '90 Maxima, which is the
>> >spousemobile/tow vehicle for the roadster or a 17ft boat (140 I/O). The
>> >Maxima has about 170k now with zero problems other than regular
maintenance
>> >items, and still gets 30mpg highway and 23mpg towing! My daily driver (VW
>> >Rabbit diesel) has always had Shell Rotella 15w40 at 3k intervals, and
after
>> >about 290k with no engine related problems, it still gets better than
50mpg
>> >highway. BTW, I tried Mobil1 once in the VW at about 200k, but it used
over
>> >a quart in 500 miles compared with about a pint in 3k with Rotella.
>> >Needless to say, I switched back.
>> >
>> >Rob Robinson
>> >CSP 67 2000
>> >Roanoke, VA
>> >
>> >
>> >
>> >
>>
>
>
|