Nathan,
The most recent gaskets from NISSAN are fantastic. You install them
as is, but they have sealant around the front cover area and also
extra around the oil hole passage.
Trick is just to make sure the block and head are flat, install the
gasket... and should work fine.
Other folks have also discovered an OEM NISSAN rubber o-ring that
seems to help in sealing the oil passage. I do not have the part
number, as I haven't done that trick.
As to MACHINING the head and block for the piece of metal pipe,
what type of machining tools does your dad have? With both the head
and block totally stripped before rebuild, just machine a deeper
hole about 0.200" deep into the head and also into the block.
Typical gasket thickness compressed is 0.060". With a piece of
copper tube cut to +0.200" + 0.200" + 0.060" + 0.010" crush...
you end up with the correct length. Allows for 0.010" crush,
and the copper will slightly expand giving a tighter seal.
I would not attempt machining the hole into the block, while the
block is in the car... I would be scared to death of the maching
chips in the oil passage. Hence best on a stripped down block.
Cheers,
Tom Walter
Austin, TX
>It has sat since then and now with head gasket in hand and nothin but time
>(yeah right), I am ready to tackle the project. Depending on what I find, I
>most likely will have my father machine the right rear oil galley and head
>to accept a short piece of pipe to relieve the oil pressure from this weak
>spot of the head gasket. Several of you thought this was possibly the
>source. Is there a FAQ or does anyone have info on this? My father was
>wanting to know what size tube was needed before we pulled the head
>off-wants to make it a one day deal.
>
>On a similar subject, it is feasible to glue one side of the head gasket to
>limit the chance of a leak? I know I've asked this one before but couldn't
>find any of your responses.
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