> Anyway, if you're using a '66 shell and frame, like I am, then the trans
> mount is different. You need to drop the existing 1600 trans mount to the
> lower holes. Some say to cut the existing mount in half.
(or make a new one altogether)
There's a tunnel
> brace that may need to be cut.
(I don't think there's any maybe about this, if you're going to use the
5 speed. Cutting the brace out is NBD and it certainly doesn't hurt
anything)
The shifter hole will need to be cut for a
> more forward position, and you'll need a custom shifter plate.
(The plates are hard to find. I got a repro from Stan Chernoff)
You'll have
> to shorten the shift-stick, to clear the radio console when shifting.
(??? I didn't change mine at all and it works fine.)
> Lastly, get a late-model inner fender for the drivers side to provide
> clearance for the U20 air filter assembly, or use body hammers and dollies
> to hammer out an indentation. I'm hammering mine out, as I have my
> late-model roadsters as a guide.
(Couple of other things -- you will probably want to move the fuse block
and relays that are on the inner left fender. Your old fan shroud won't
work -- I ended up making a new one. Make sure you have enough radiator
to cool the U20, like a three-row heavy duty core at minimum)
Barrie
'66 2000
San Diego
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