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Re: Question: What primer to use?

To: sandhoff@compctr.ccs.csus.edu
Subject: Re: Question: What primer to use?
From: BERKEN@aol.com
Date: Wed, 7 Jul 1999 20:57:35 EDT
In a message dated 07/06/1999 2:52:00 PM Mountain Daylight Time, 
sandhoff@compctr.ccs.csus.edu writes:

<< So, if I do the sanding and puttying and body prep work, what primer
 should I be spraying? Is there a 'rattle can' primer compatible with
 getting a quality top coat laid down when the time comes?
 
 -- John
      John F Sandhoff   sandhoff@csus.edu   Sacramento, CA
  >>

John, 

NO NO NO, don't try to get it prepped w/spray cans.  I would suggest you get 
a book called "How to Paint Your Car"; it's available from Classic Motorbooks 
at 1-800-826-6600 and it will tell you a lot about prepping a car for paint. 
Just a couple of notes on a subject you could talk about for days...

1. If you expect the paint to stick to your prepped body, you're going to 
need to buy a compressor and a spray gun.  The neat thing about primer is 
it's very forgiving. If you get a run, you can just wet sand it smooth again.
2.  You don't have to go to bare metal but you HAVE to get down to SOUND (not 
flaking) paint.  If you wet sand w/220 wet paper, you can get it done faster. 
 The ENTIRE body has to be roughed up to give the old paint some "tooth" to 
adhere to.  
3.  Remove ALL old wax and polishes BEFORE you begin.  You can use a wax and 
polish remover from an auto paint store or mineral spirits (paint thinner) 
works ok too.
4.  Learn to do guide coats.  The smallest little dent you can barely see in 
primer is glaringly obvious with shiny/$50/qt paint on it.  If you really 
want to get a good looking job, you're going to need to learn to do body 
work. I can't remember the name of my favorite (it's packed) but Classic 
Motorbooks has several.  It's very unlikely the body is totally straight.
5.  It takes some time and is hard work, but very rewarding.

Hope this helps. Email if you want me to ramble some more.....

Joseph Berkenbile
70 1600
Albuquerque


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