>I had a tandem trailer with electric brakes for two years and towed my
>roadster from Rochester, NY to Watkins Glen, Lime Rock, Summit Point, Nelson
>Ledges, Pocono, etc. and then it was stolen.
>I now have two single axle, electric brake trailers that I haul the roadster
>and the 280Z to the various tracks, and they work fine and are much lighter
>and easier to tow.
Are your new trailers local custom builds or commercial? I just sold my
18 ft. flatbed, dual axles rated at 3500/axle. Wouldn't mind a lighter
unit if I replace it. This one was basically 2 x 4 steel tubing and
diamond plate, so it was fairly hefty, but also relatively inexpensive at
$1600. We had also built a removable 2 ft. high "box" that allowed us to
haul gravel, dirt, other stuff like that. Lined the bottom and up the
sides with plastic sheeting to keep the little stuff from sifting out. I
expect the car(s) to weigh between 1800 and 2200 lbs. Using aluminum it
might be practical to get the car/trailer combo below the 3500 lb rating
for a single axle. Probably considerably more expensive, too.
>Most important are brakes - I prefer electric as they are adjustable from
>the
>driver's seat for rain or dry driving and you can back the trailer up hills
>without the brakes coming on like surge brakes do.
>I use a class III hitch with torsion bars and get very little sway. I cruise
>the Interstates at 70-75 with no problems.
The trailer brake control on our pickup is a Hayes electric unit that is
actually proportional and I highly recommend it. Electric brakes are the
only way to go. Certainly if you're going to be using the same tow
vehicle most/all the time.
FWIW, Ron
________________
Ronnie Day
rday@airmail.net
Dallas/Ft. Worth
'71 510 2-dr (Prepared class autocrosser)
'73 510 2-dr (Street Toy)
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