Starter solenoid.
Lack of voltage at the solenoid.
Try a "remote starter" next time. I'd recommend hooking it up
when the car is cold, least you burn your hand on the exhaust
system. One connection goes on the starter solenoid terminal,
the other the battery. You are bypass the car's wiring, connections,
and ignition switch.
If that works, then do the following:
Check the connections going to the starter solenoid (1/4" spade connector)
are clean and corrosion free.
Over the years usually the ignition switch contacts will become pitted,
and add a resistance to the electrical path. Less voltage at the starter
solenoid results.
A simple 'fix' is the addition of a relay to the solenoid circuit.
Use the ignition switch to close the relay coil. A new "hot"
wire is then added from the battery, to the relay contact. Then
the other contact is wired to the starter solenoid spade connetor.
relay coil
ignition switch wire ----------()()()()()--------------- ground
battery power ----------o o--------------- starter solenoid
==========
relay contact
Use a good quality Autmotive relay rated for At least 20Amps, and
witha 12V coil. Bosch, Amp, Siemens are good quality items. Lots of
"made in taiwan" trash out there.
Cheers,
Tom Walter
Austin, TX
>Last week I drove home the second 1600 ('70). Can't remember feeling so
>small on the highway. Anyway, it started okay and ran fine for the 40
>minute ride. Then I turned it off to go and open the gates (about 5
>minutes), - then no start, no nothin' when the key turned. About three
>hours later it started no problem.
>
>Had a GTO that did that, needed a heat shield for the starter.
>
>Which direction should I go looking?
>
>Thanks!
>
>Jim
>'70 1600 (DOA in Phoenix)
>'70 1600 (Not DOA, on Life Support)
>
>
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