>>If you do want to use a 240Z drum, it would be best to have
>>another set of holes (45 degree offset) drilled, with the
>>proper 7/16" hole.
>
>Same bolt circle, just different diameter holes?
Yes.
>Excellent idea. Someone posted recently to the 510 list about how hard it
>often is to remove the heater return (?) fitting on the right rear corner
>of an L-series head. Using antiseize there might help, too.
Another good place for antisieze... any steel to aluminum fitting.
Included are the water temp senders. Those are usually near impossible
to remove after sitting for 30 years.
When I need to remove a STUCK aluminum brake drum. I place a good size
OAK (hardwood) board behind the fins. Then pound on the board. Keeps
from damaging the fins.
>BTW, do you think running a line from that point up to the water pump
>(heater supply?) might improve cooling on a higher compression motor? It
>seems to me that it would improve coolant flow through the head.
Remember the heater is actually a small radiator. Bypass it, with
a direct line, and you'll be feeding hot water back through the engine
without a cooling path.
I would recommend making sure the cooling system is up to par.
Use a thermostat. Very least, if running without a thermostat -
I would still use a "restrictor" plate (nothing more than a large
washer with a hole in it) to help keep the engine from forming hot
pockets around the head.
Cheers,
Tom
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