I own and work on private aircraft and aviation mechanics use it on
aluminum aircraft engines with good results. I would recommend its use
on engines with aluminum heads. Be careful to apply the anti-sieze to
only the thread area.... getting it on the electrode will short things
out.
Mike Denman
J Arzt wrote:
>
> A good quality anti-seize is the best defense against bad plug threads.
> Having worked at VW dealers for over 12 years, I can verify that the
> mechanics swear by it. A light coat on the threads will leave metal
> particles behind that prevent the alloy head material bonding to the spark
> plug. I personally use it on every engine, not just alloy head models.
>
> Jon Arzt
>
> >From: Roland Dudley <cobra@scs.agilent.com>
> >Reply-To: Roland Dudley <cobra@scs.agilent.com>
> >To: Eganb@aol.com
> >CC: Triumphs@autox.team.net, british-cars@autox.team.net,
> >tr8@mercury.lcs.mit.edu
> >Subject: Re: TR7 BFH#37y
> >Date: Mon, 11 Dec 2000 12:53:46 -0800 (PST)
> >
> >I'm not so sure about the anti-seize. I suspect that it will just burn
> >up when you run the motor. It's mostly grease. You could end up with
> >an even worse mess; for example a plug that can't be unscrewed. My
> >personal experience with the VW I once had with this problem was that it
> >got worse and worse. Eventually I had to put an insert in the spark
> >plug hole. One thing on the bug, was that I only had this problem for
> >one cylinder, which was the one that got the hottest- #3 also, I
> >believe. The others were just fine. Could be you some sort of an
> >overheating problem on that one cylinder- or like VWs that one just
> >normally gets much hotter than the others.
> >
> >Regarding "static" timing. Instead of a timing light, try rigging up a
> >12V bulb with wires and alligator clips. If I remember correctly from
> >my VW days, one side is clipped to ground and the other to the low
> >voltage connection between the distributor and coil. When the
> >distributor closes the primary connection to the coil, the light goes
> >on. You rotate the crank until the timing mark is where you want it,
> >then rotate the distributor until the light goes on, than back off until
> >the light just goes out. Of course this was for a distributor with
> >points. I'm not sure what setup a TR7 has. This procedure may not work
> >or may have to be modified in some way.
> >
> >Roland
> >
> > >
> > > Hah! Eventually the cards have to fall your way. With a $6 thread
> >chaser I
> > > was able to clean out the #3 spark plug hole. I used a lot of oil on
> >the
> > > chaser. Some bits of metal came out, but mostly it looks like the
> >threads
> > > were just dirty and corroded.
> > >
> > > So I'll be using liberal amounts of anti-seize on the plugs from now on.
> > >
> > > Almost done hooking everything up. Here's a question. Can I roughly
> >time
> > > the engine with my timing light by turning it over with the spark plugs
> >out?
> > > Will I get enough revs to make the strobe effective?
> > >
> > >
> > > Bruce
> > > 1980 Inca Yellow TR7 Convertible
> > > Chapel Hill, NC
>
>
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