I'm not so sure about the anti-seize. I suspect that it will just burn
up when you run the motor. It's mostly grease. You could end up with
an even worse mess; for example a plug that can't be unscrewed. My
personal experience with the VW I once had with this problem was that it
got worse and worse. Eventually I had to put an insert in the spark
plug hole. One thing on the bug, was that I only had this problem for
one cylinder, which was the one that got the hottest- #3 also, I
believe. The others were just fine. Could be you some sort of an
overheating problem on that one cylinder- or like VWs that one just
normally gets much hotter than the others.
Regarding "static" timing. Instead of a timing light, try rigging up a
12V bulb with wires and alligator clips. If I remember correctly from
my VW days, one side is clipped to ground and the other to the low
voltage connection between the distributor and coil. When the
distributor closes the primary connection to the coil, the light goes
on. You rotate the crank until the timing mark is where you want it,
then rotate the distributor until the light goes on, than back off until
the light just goes out. Of course this was for a distributor with
points. I'm not sure what setup a TR7 has. This procedure may not work
or may have to be modified in some way.
Roland
>
> Hah! Eventually the cards have to fall your way. With a $6 thread chaser I
> was able to clean out the #3 spark plug hole. I used a lot of oil on the
> chaser. Some bits of metal came out, but mostly it looks like the threads
> were just dirty and corroded.
>
> So I'll be using liberal amounts of anti-seize on the plugs from now on.
>
> Almost done hooking everything up. Here's a question. Can I roughly time
> the engine with my timing light by turning it over with the spark plugs out?
> Will I get enough revs to make the strobe effective?
>
>
> Bruce
> 1980 Inca Yellow TR7 Convertible
> Chapel Hill, NC
|