I used after market ARP head, main bearing and connecting rod bolts on
my motor. They came not only with very explicit torquing instruction,
but also included a special lubricant. If I recall, the instructions
also included torquing specs for use with engine oil, which were a bit
lower than for the supplied lubricant.
BTW, I believe that Felpro claims that no bolt re-torquing after X
number of initial miles is required if you use their head gaskets. I've
have heard from some pretty knowledgeable people that this is bunk.
Roland
>
> I had a neat little pamphlet from Felpro about their head gaskets. The
> pamphlet had pages and pages of charts showing the torquing methods for all
> sorts of cars. I read through some of them. It was amazing the different
> methods. Most did it in stages - like 15 lbs for all first, 25, 35 ...
> (those are just numbers thrown out there for example, each car seemed to
> have different steps). Others, with or without steps, went up to the final
> torque number, then backed down a partial turn, then back up. All sorts of
> combinations. So, I think the bottom line point is to simply do what the
> factory for your car recommended - ie hot, cold, dry, wet, steps, etc. -
> though I'm pretty sure my Alpine factory manuals only give the final
> setting and don't say anything about wet or dry.
>
> Jay
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