Well, I'm getting some mixed messages about re-torquing the cylinder head.
The TR7 has nuts/studs on top, and bolts on the bottom. I decided to
re-torque everything since I hadn't done it before, and I'm glad I did
because there really did seem to be a difference in the torque for each one.
After I was done, I was advised that I should torque them 'wet,' ie with
lubrication to avoid false torque readings. So I did them all again,
cleaning each nut and bolt and washer and coating everything with motor oil.
Now I realize another supporter said to torque them dry, since wet torquing
could lead to over-torquing.
The manual seems to have no advice on this issue -- so thoughts from the rest
of you?
Meanwhile, to get one of the head bolts off, I had to take off the entire
rigid air pump line connection that goes to each cylinder. I was sure
something was going to be rusted on, but surprisingly the line came off with
little resistance. I'm pretty sure the air pump doesn't work anymore, so
what's the possibility of just taking off pump and line and plugging the
holes?
Finally, I'm ready to mate the engine with flywheel/clutch/transmission. To
do this I'll have to take the engine off the engine stand, and I'm pondering
how the heck to support it. I suspect I don't want to rest it on the oil pan
-- too much weight on the gasket? But there isn't much other room to support
it from underneath.
And I don't want to simply hang it from the engine lift -- too scary a
thought that it might come crashing down unexpectedly.
So any thoughts? Rest it on the very front of the oil pan, and on the block
in the back? Or maybe fashion a sling under the engine while it is hanging
from the lift, just as a precaution in case the chain/lifting bolt breaks?
As always, inquiring minds thank you for your interest and support!
Bruce
1980 Inca Yellow TR7 5-speed convertible
Chapel Hill, NC
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