>
> I had the carbs tuned for me about mid-summer (Nashville, TN - hot!) and
> it's been going fine - starting right up every morning and everything, until
> recently when I've noticed that until I get close to operating temp it
> coughs a little on accelleration as if there was no oil in the dampers or
> there was a vacuum leak. As soon as it gets up to temp it accellerates just
> fine. Since it is cold out there and I work in the drive, I thought I'd ask
> before doing. Could this just be from the oil in the carbs being too stiff
> from the cold? I'm using the same 20w/50 I throw in the engine and just
> recently the overnight temps have been hitting the mid-twenties.
While 20w/50 is a bit much for HIF's (stock on 74's; p.o.'s can vary). It's
not gonna be a killer. ATF year-round works good, and is what's called for.
On the stumble, look to the ignition... probably point gap.
> Part the second is back to the suspension and/or steering. I've gotten it
> all done EXCEPT for new front crossmember mounts and getting the play out of
> the column. Again, when spring arrives I have a plan. Whenever I turn the
> wheel I hear this grinding noise and it sounds a lot like bearings that are
> NOT round anymore. I found another column and am prepared to either replace
> the whole thing or take the bearings out of it and put them in mine. I'd
Check the horn rub. It's a brass arm with a button on the end attached to the
turn signal switch, that rubs on the back of the sterring wheel. Eventually
the "button" wears away, leaving this sharp brass strip/arm to drag/screach/
groan on the back of the wheel.
> Glenn
> _________________________________
Randy
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