Chip Old wrote:
>
> Sanded them down??? Ouch! Well, whatever works, I guess, but how did you
> manage to take an even cut all the way around each sleeve? (Visions of
> massive leaks). The preferred way is to have the machine shop chuck them
> in a lathe and remove the required amount from the step near the bottom of
> the sleeve (where it rests on the figure eight gasket).
*** I had the same doubts, but that's what the machine shop owner told me
to do. I had a sheet of plate glass with 220-grit wet-or-dry taped to it,
and I wet-sanded the sleeves by rubbing them over the plate. I took off
about 3 thou, which is what he'd taken off the top of the block. It was
a royal pain.
I rubbed and chanted:
``I wish I had a lathe,
I wish I had a lathe,
I wish I had a lathe.....''
I checked my progress by putting them in the block and measuring
protrusion. I also checked it in three or four places around the
circumferance of the sleeve.
There didn't seem to be anything special about the finish at the
top of the sleeves; I finished off the job by rotating them on the
plate over a piece of 320 grit. I figured that a concentric sanding
pattern was less likely to leak than a radial one.
That's not the only home-made engineering job I did with that car;
I have a friend who's a old-time british car mechanic. Now he teaches
truck maintenance at a community college. Several years ago, I went
and visited him there with the Clankster's head. He gave me a big file,
a machinist's straightedge, and a feeler gauge. Using these three tools,
I was able to take out the warp in the head surface.
- Jerry
p.s. Since then, that head has been redone at a real live professional
machine shop, had hardened seats installed, and all new exhaust valves....
....Vroom!
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