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Re: Body prep

To: gerry@hostel.lincroftnj.ncr.com
Subject: Re: Body prep
From: "W. Ray Gibbons" <gibbons@northpole.med.uvm.edu>
Date: Mon, 19 Dec 1994 10:11:22 -0500 (EST)
On Mon, 19 Dec 1994 gerry@hostel.lincroftnj.ncr.com wrote:

> After searching high and low - I finally found my winter project.
> 
> It is a 1963 MGB shell, which has never been on the road or registered. The 

> However - I shall be sending the shell to a bead-blaster to have it stripped 
>down to
> bare-metal. The blaster I am dealing with has done several LBCs over the past 
>year or

> After the shell returns, it will be totally seam welded and a new passenger 
>footwell
> welded in place. I intend to build the car up as a replica of the BMC rally 
>cars

> What I would like to know from anybody who has done bare-metal restoration, 
>is 
> what are the steps I should take after the shell is bead blasted.
> 
> My thoughts were:
> The interior, engine compartment and underside : 
>            1 coat etching primer
>            2 coats red-oxide primer
>            1 coat of POR 15
>            2 coats of top paint (I have used Hammerite in the past and POR 
>does not
>              come in a variety of colors)
> 

> thanks - gerry

Gerry,

In a word, NO.  Definitely do not put POR15 over primer, it will just peel
off taking your top coats with it.  It is a mystery to me why POR15 sticks
to rust, probably due to the roughness.  Anyway, it does not adhere well
to smooth, unrusted surfaces.  I have put it over paint, and it came off
in sheets.

I recommend PPG DP40 (or DP50 etc. for different colors) epoxy primer over
clean bare metal, followed by lacquer type primer surfacer, followed by a
thinned coat of DP40 as a sealer, followed by acrylic lacquer.  Go to a
PPG paint dealer and they should give you recommended primers for acrylic
lacquer finishes.  I am sure DP40 is good as a first coat, follow their
recommendations for everything else. 

Ray Gibbons





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