On Mon, 19 Dec 1994 gerry@hostel.lincroftnj.ncr.com wrote:
> After searching high and low - I finally found my winter project.
>
> It is a 1963 MGB shell, which has never been on the road or registered. The
> However - I shall be sending the shell to a bead-blaster to have it stripped
>down to
> bare-metal. The blaster I am dealing with has done several LBCs over the past
>year or
> After the shell returns, it will be totally seam welded and a new passenger
>footwell
> welded in place. I intend to build the car up as a replica of the BMC rally
>cars
> What I would like to know from anybody who has done bare-metal restoration,
>is
> what are the steps I should take after the shell is bead blasted.
>
> My thoughts were:
> The interior, engine compartment and underside :
> 1 coat etching primer
> 2 coats red-oxide primer
> 1 coat of POR 15
> 2 coats of top paint (I have used Hammerite in the past and POR
>does not
> come in a variety of colors)
>
> thanks - gerry
Gerry,
In a word, NO. Definitely do not put POR15 over primer, it will just peel
off taking your top coats with it. It is a mystery to me why POR15 sticks
to rust, probably due to the roughness. Anyway, it does not adhere well
to smooth, unrusted surfaces. I have put it over paint, and it came off
in sheets.
I recommend PPG DP40 (or DP50 etc. for different colors) epoxy primer over
clean bare metal, followed by lacquer type primer surfacer, followed by a
thinned coat of DP40 as a sealer, followed by acrylic lacquer. Go to a
PPG paint dealer and they should give you recommended primers for acrylic
lacquer finishes. I am sure DP40 is good as a first coat, follow their
recommendations for everything else.
Ray Gibbons
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