Louis-Charles wrote, regarding Amco vs. Robbins tops:
>We faced the same question when we replaced the top on our TR7 two years
>ago. After investigation, we selected the Amco top mainly because of a
>modification they made for TR7s. They have added a pointed part at the
>front corners that eliminate water leaks in that area. We also like the
>inside of the top better which is vinyl coated. The fit is very good, and
>installation was relatively easy. It may be a good idea to stock up on a
>good selection of rivets (if they are used on MGs). The top comes with the
>necessary hardware, but sometimes the LBC sample being worked on may require
>longer rivets for some areas.
>
>I would not hesitate to buy the same top again. However, it may be a good
>idea to see if any of the manufacturers have "improved" the original design
>before making a final selection.
I had a new Robbins top put on my TR7 two years ago, and have more to add
to this discussion.
My original top had the triangles to which Louis-Charles refers. These
triangles are a most non-intuitive part of the top. Unless you know what
they are for and carefully remember to insert them in the place that they
do not naturally fall, you get terrible leaking. I once read my owner's
manual to see if there were any hints on putting the top up, and then
went looking for leaks with a hose. When I found a major leak at the
corners, I figured out how to stuff those corners of the top outside
the door frame to prevent the corner leak. THEN, I went back to the
owner's manual and found that it had told me how to put up the top, but
that I had just missed it! Now, I am occasionally stupid, but in this
case, the operation is nonintuitive enough that the manual is just not
clear enough on the importance of the operation. I still find that I
occasionally forget to put the triangles in the right place.
I have the following problems with my Robbins top (which I still prefer
to the original because the Robbins doesn't leak):
* The original had "security tabs" that are captured by the doors when
closed, which might discourage a "thief of convenience"; without the
tabs, you can get in to a locked convertible TR7 by unsnapping the
snaps, instead of requiring a knife. (Last year, in a conversation
on this list, another TR7 owner mentioned that his older Robbins top
does have those tabs.)
* The shape of the drivers window opening is not right as installed, and
I can't see how it is the problem of the installation. Nor can my
installer. Because of the mild misshaping, I have two problems. One
is that there is a small (1/8") air gap a few inches above the driver's
shoulder that is surprisingly cold in winter. (It doesn't leak under
most circumstances, though, surprisingly.) The second problem is that
when the window is rolled up, it will usually roll up inside the top,
rather than outside as designed, and thus won't seal. Often, the force
on the top from rolling up the window exposes the final problem with the
top:
* The top is misshapen at the back of the driver's door, in that the snap
is so close to the end of the material that it is adjacent to a folded-
over end of the material. Where the material is folded over, it is
much thicker. It is so thick next to the snap that the excess material
pushes in the direction of opening the snap. When the window is rolled
up, the snap opens and the corner of the top flaps around until I stop
and rework it, presumably in the rain.
Based on my experience, then, I would not recommend Robbins tops.
--Joe Gorin joeg@sr.hp.com Santa Rosa, CA '80 TR7 convertible
|