Well here it is, courtesy of Al Johnson. He said that he found these
ideas in a military publication. I suppose that those folks have to
store their cars often since they move around alot. I found some helpful,
original ideas in this text. Enjoy.
-Jim Babcock
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Netters---
Due to the enthusiastic response regarding the car storage article I
have decided to fatfinger the information into the computer.
The article takes a long-term approach to car storage. Although some
useful info may be gleaned for winter storage.
I hope everyone finds the information relevant and useful. This will also
provide all with hard copy capability should people decide to file
for future reference.
CAR STORAGE TIPS
Location: of course, if at all possible store the car in a garage.
Also if possible store in a cool, dry environment where the temp does not
fall below freezing, extremely high temps are also as bad.
Engine/Fuel System: the MOST IMPORTANT thing to remember when
mothballing an engine is to do it while it is warm. All the procedures
are worthless if moisture has a chance to seep into a cold engine.
The fuel system can be prepared by using a siphon pump to remove as much
gas as possible from the tank, then let the engine run until it's out of
gas. If gas is left in the system it will evaporate, leaving a deposit
that can damage the engine and fuel components. Mix up a 3-4 quart
solution of kerosene and oil (three parts kerosene to one part oil),
dump it in the tank and bounce the car to thoroughly slosh and coat the
inside of the tank.
Remove the spark plugs and ground the large ignition wire coming from the
coil to the distributor. Pour one ounce of non-detergent oil through the
spark plug port of each cyclinder. Use the same weight oil you would
normally use. Reinstall the plugs, but not the coil wire. Crank the
engine over 5-10 secconds. This will coat the cyclinders with oil and
draw the kerosene/oil mixture into the fuel pump and carb(s) to help in
the rustproofing proccess. [the article makes no reference to FI, sorry]
Change the oil and filter. Contaminants in dirty oil can cause serious
problems when left in the engine.
Relieve tension on all drive belts.
Cooling: drain the coolant. Flush the cooling system and re-fill with
fresh, rust-inhbiting coolant to normal strength/levels.
Tranny-Dif: Top off oil levels. [no mention as to fresh oils. Since no
specific mention was made, I assume no oil change is neessary].
Leave the car in neutral with the parking brake off. If possible, cut a
piece of wood long enough to fit from the bottom of the dash to fully
depress the clutch. Otherwise the clutch plates will rust together.
Elect: remove the battery.
Exhaust: use some type of plug and duct tape to plug the exhaust pipe(s)
and air cleaner(s). Also plug oil breather valves. If a newer, closed type
system, this last step is not neessary. Plug anything possible going
into/out of the engine/exhaust system.
Interior: use a good quality upholstery cleaner and plenty of elbow
grease. This will clean and soften the upholstery and get it ready for
an application of silicone spray. Don't forget to treat all the plastic
interior parts with silicone spray. Neat's-foot oil works well on leather.
Chrome: a light layer of petroleum jelly will preserve chrome, while bright
metal trim needs no special treatment.
Suspension: put the car on jack stands or blocks and remove the wheels.
If for any reason you are unable to remove the wheels, jacking will at
least eliminate tire flat spots as well as ease strain on shocks, wheel
bearings, etc. If the car cannot be lifted off the ground, increase tire
pressure by 10-15 psi.
Cover: open a window JUST a crack and cover the car with a top quality
car cover. DON'T use plastic to over the car as it cannot breathe and
moisture will be trapped against the body.
RETURN to driving condition: Add gas. Install freshly charged battery.
Tighten all belts. Check all fluid levels. Check tire pressures.
Remove all plugs from the engine/exhause system. Disconnect the fuel line
between the fuel pump and carb(s). Provide a catch basin for the fuel
and turn the engine over 10-15 seconds. This will both pump out any
residue in the fuel line and provide oil to the engine parts.
Reconnet the fuel line, reinstall (un-ground) the coil wire, install
new spark plugs, and fire away.
Thought one more item useful to keep im mind when returning your car
to life after storage. When you go to try revive it after it has
been sitting, I highly recommend using STARTING FLUID in the carbs,
it works wonders.
It gets the cars fired up right way, so you don't have as much metal-to-
metal grinding. In fact I use starting fluid even if I can't get
around to driving or at least starting the cars after a week or two of
sitting.
Big Al
se096404@acad.stedwards.edu
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