On Wed, 5 Oct 1994 DANIELS@LMSBV3.TAMU.EDU wrote:
> me" stage, but a final small repair is in order. I've cut out a small
> piece of the rocker panel that was damaged and subsequently rusted, and
> hope to get new metal on there in the next day or so. But, hey, this is
> my first attempt at sheet-metal repair, and I'd like to know the easiest
> way to go about this:
>
> Can I successfully MIG-weld on a new patch (I'm using the "Pocket MIG" from
> Daytona), or will I not be able to keep it from burning through? Would I
> be more successful by just brazing this in? It doesn't have to be
> artistic; I'll smooth it out with a grider and then plastic before
> painting.
> Lee M. Daniels Laboratory for Molecular Structure and Bonding Texas A&M
> daniels@tamu.edu (409) 845-3726 Fax (409) 845-9351
Excuse me? I'd say anyone in the Lab. for Molecular Structure and Bonding
should be able to mig weld on a patch. It should be easier than brazing.
Make sure the hole has removed all rusty metal, so what remains is full
thickness. Try to borrow a tool to press a small step in the metal around
the hole. Then the patch can sit flush in the recess, and welding will be
easy. Alternatively, fit a patch precisely in the hole with edges butted
up against the rocker metal (<1/16" gap). Use a magnet or tape to hold in
place while you tack one or two spots. Remove tape. Tack around the
edge, then weld it continuously. One key to not burning big holes is to
weld only a half inch or so at a time, allowing the work to cool briefly
before starting again. If you just keep running a bead, you increase
chance of burning through because the heat builds up. Your mig will
probably have a table to help you choose heat range and wire feed speed
for the thickness metal you are using. Use that for a butt weld, or go a
step hotter if overlapping the pieces.
Ray (I better get off the net and do some work today) Gibbons
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