Having just gone through this and also having had just about everything
that could possibly be the cause wrong on my car, here is a list.
Probably the pin that hold the throughout fork to the cross shaft is
sheared. Cheap part, lots of work to replace.
The clutch may be bad or incorrectly installed. Mine had a Borg and Beck
pressure plate with a Laycock clutch disk. The Pressure plate and disk
must be from the same manufacturer.
The throughout bearing is shot. Anouther cheap part, that requires lots
of work to replace.
The throughout fork pins are worn or broken. Fork can be replaced while
replacing the pin.
The Cross shaft is worn. Heck replace it while you replace the fork and
pin.
The Bushings for the Cross shaft are worn. See above.
The holes in the lever arm are worn. This is already being replaced.
The clevis pin is worn. You Get the idea.
The Hydrolics don't work for any number of reasons. Rebuild/Replace.
The pedal or associated parts are worn.
The final out come on mine was to replace the clutch, bearing, fork, pin,
cross shaft, and bushings. And rebuild the master and slave cylinders.
While you have the trany out you might as well replace the U-Joints on
the drive shaft and replace the drive shaft bolts with new grade 8
bolts. Also check the condition of your fly wheel and ring gear.
Change the oil in the trany and diff. And replace all of the leaking
seals.
Now that your pocket book is empty and your TR6 is in pieces all over
the garage, don't forget to replace the pilot bearing in the back of the
crankshaft.
Total bill ~$250, total time ~30Hrs.
And we wonder why we have shipwrights disease.
--
-----------------------------------------------------------------------
Kevin Spooner
The Sports Works of Greeley
Specializing in Triumphs and British Sports Cars
britcars@hpfckjs.fc.hp.com
-----------------------------------------------------------------------
|