On Fri, 15 Jul 1994, Bill Yarborough wrote:
> I just got a good look at a TC that an acquaintance has had in storage
> for the past 17 years. The car appears to be absolutely complete, with
> no rusted panels that I could see or feel, and no wood problems either
> that I could detect. He wants to sell it to me, and I need some advice
> and/or encouragement and/or warnings!
Check the wood in the sills (at the very bottom of the body tub). That's
usually the first wood to rot, so chances are if it's good there it's
good everywhere else. Check for rust in the same area, as well as under
the windscreen mounting brackets and around the joint between the rear
wings and the body tub. These are often the first places to go.
> His top mechanic clipped a battery charger to it, dropped a fuel
> line tube into a can of gas, and it started right up and PURRS.
That's promising, but do a compression check and make sure the oil
pressure is above 60 psi at 300 rpm or higher. The T-Type's XPAG engine
isn't difficult to rebuild, but bad compression and/or pressure gives you
a lever to bargain with.
> He says the brakes are completely out...
Did he say why? If it's a hydraulic problem, it's no big deal to
fix and parts are readily available. However, TA/TB/TC brakes are prone
to two problems that are not so easily fixed: (1) axle oil in the rear
brakes, and (2) badly warped brake drums. There is no seal in the
conventional sense at the outer ends of the rear axle, and due to weear
in various axle and ub parts a lot of oil can get dumped into the
brakes. It's fixable, but it's a pain. The brake drums are forged
steel, not cast iron, and they are a bit too thin, so they have a
tendency to warp from heat. To true them up they should be ground, not
turned, and not many brake shops are equipped to do that these days.
Whether you grind them or turn them, it makes them even thinner and more
subject to warpage. New steel drums are occasionally available, as are
cast iron and Alfin replacements, but they're quite expensive.
> ... and I noted a LOT of play in the steering wheel.
Typical of most TCs, although it doesn't need to be that way. You can get
a pretty good idea of the work needed by watching what does and does not
move in synch wit the wheel as you turn it. It may be a simple matter of
adjusting the play in the steering box (shims under the top cover), or it
may require a complete front end rebuild (new king pins & bushings, tie
rod ends, etc). The TC _can_ be made to steer very nicely, contrary to
popular wisdom.
> There are the requisite dust, scratches, scrapes, and dings in the body,
> but no real damage.
Sounds like it's all easily repaired. If not, virtually all body panels
are available. Just remember that you're dealing with sheet metal panels
tacked onto an ash framework, and that sheet metal is thicker than you
may be used to hammer 'n' dollying on more modern cars.
> The tach is missing.
Major disaster! Real TC drivers drive by the tach (and besides, the
speedo is way over in front of the passenger). <grin> Seriously, you
shouldn't have too much trouble finding an original rev counter (which
can be rebuilt if necessary by Nisonger). If all else fails, electronic
repro tachs are also available, but they don't tick like an authentic
chronometric unit.
> He said that the gas tank will need cleaning out and
> repair of some sort...
It's soldered together, so may only need resoldering. If it's rusted
trough, repair isn't difficult because there are no compound curves.
Repro tanks are also available.
> ...but that they (he and the mechanics at the
> dealership) have started it and looked after it regularly while it's been
> there.
If it as been run regularly, that's good news. Doesn't do an engine any
good to sit idle for many years.
> He has the original manuals and a couple of other old TC books.
Speaking of TC books, I highly recommend Michael Sherrill's book "TCs
Forever" (privately published, but available from most specialist auto
book vendors). Mike is a crazy Australian who knows TCs better tan almost
anyone else I know. The book is a veritable bible of TC restoration and
maintenance info. Don't let the fact that he quotes me a lot dissuade
you...
> Here are my questions. Are there any serious problems that such a car
> might have that I should look for? (Note: define serious to mean
> "expensive")
You've already mentioned the most serious possibilities. Be warned,
however, that parts are expensive, so almost _any_ problem you run into
will cost a bundle. It's not unlike your Morgan +4 in that respect.
> For me only, the price is $7000 ($9000 or more for anyone else).
Sounds reasonable (but a bit high), based on your description, but
current TC prices still amaze me. Mine cost me $750 including shipping
from England. You can guess how long ago that was!
> So, fellow lbc'ers, what should I do? Walk away from it? Jump on it?
> Take it for a test drive w/o brakes? Offer him less?
It's worth looking at more carefully. Try to get the price down a thou
or so, but if you really want it...
Chip Old 1948 M.G. TC TC6710 NEMGTR #2271
feold@umd5.umd.edu 1962 Triumph TR4 CT3154LO (daily transportation)
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