The recommendation to use a "wiggler" is excellent. You can purchase
such a fine tool from Snap-On or Mac Tools with a very "slimline" fine
toothed ratchet. It works like a charm on the formidable three or four
bolts up front. IMHO, don't try it with a modified box wrench, it only
frustrates you and could cross-thread the bolts.
Using your "dingle-ball" hone, as mechanics refer to them, (if you
decided to yank the engine) would not be a bad idea. Yes, as you
noted, the 18 series engine block is made of a very high grade
cast-iron which is resistant to wear; however, you should "run-through"
the hone (IMHO for a "professional" job) as this will help "seat" the
piston rings. As the engine bores and pistion (with rings) "wear
together" there is a tendency to create a "glaze" which needs to be
knocked out gently. A dingle ball hone will gently remove such things
and treat the rings to a good seating surface for break-in.
( I mentioned removing the engine while using the hone because if you
lose a "dingle-ball" and its lodges in the block you are out of luck.
Also, a good cleansing with brake cleaner or contact cleaner in the
bores is much easier on an engine stand out of the car.)
Also, I have mentione it before but I'll say it again. . . With the
bottom and top end out, check over the mains with a "plastiguage" tool
and check the rocker arms for play. Also, USE LIBERAL AMOUNTS, of
assemble lube on rod bearings, etc. when reassembling your engine.
(The most 'dangerous' time in starting any engine after any invasive
work is when there is no lubrication to close moving metal parts.) One
gentleman's idea of replacing the oil pump is excellent (many mechanics
will not do even a semi-rebuild such as yours without replacement of
this vital, often neglected part.)
The main problem you'll have with "doing it in the dirt" is that you
will be spoiling the ground (or cement) you will have to work upon.
That is to say, oil, etc. will make it a very messy and dangerous
proposition. You can have the engine out (even novice level) in less
than 3 hours with a "cherry picker" and sometimes faster with the help
of an air-tool and an buddy. When you remove the engine and
transmission as a unit they install very nicely and you can degrease
the entire lot and check for bad or worn motor and tranny mounts.
(With the new found power this will put a "tweak" on those things.)
P.S. Sometimes pulling out the pistions "through the top" can't be
done without a ridge reamer. Don't start the job without access to one
of these.
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