Kevin wrote:
> > Now and then, the car wouldn't start. It's as
> > if the battery were dead
>
> But this sounds exactly like what my '72 TR6 is doing.
Must be a virus going 'round. Don't let your car know about the
SOL mailing list!
My '72 TR6 also showed its Lucas butt this weekend! Decided to take
it out for a short ride Sunday afternoon. Cranked fine, and eventually
started with the usual spits and sputters after not being run for several
weeks. Went to do two errands. Started great after the first.
But at the second! Turn key to start. Nada. Nuttin. OK, what's going
on? What have I done? Take a reading. Amp meter shows usual dip as
switch goes from off to on and the radio's playing, so there's at least
some juice flowing. But moving key to start makes not even a click, much
less the desired cranking sound.
Well during the drive, I'd been diagnosing my wobbly steering column. I
though it was the internal bushings, but feeling around underneath has
located a loose mounting bolt (you do things like this going down the
road too, don't you?). So I figured I must have disturbed the mass of
wires around the ignition switch. Gave a good wiggle and push, figured
that would put whatever I'd moved back in place. Nada. OK, raise the
hood (er bonnett).
Yep everything's there. Now what! I pulled briefly at the battery-starter
cable. Seems tight. Knocked twice with my knuckles on the starter
solenoid (more serious diagnosis would of course require a screwdriver
handle for the knocking). Stared for a few moments. Wandered back around
to drivers side. With no reason to think success, I reached in and
turned the key. Son of a gun! It started! Not one to look a gift horse
in the mouth, I proceeded straight home to try several off-on cycles in
the safety of the garage. All works fine.
I'm sure it's saying as in the movies "I'll be baaaaack." I guess it's time
to recheck wires and connections, and always park pointing downhill.
Kevin is also concerned with fuses...
> headlights blow a 15-amp (I think) fuse more and more frequently. First
> it only happened in the rain, and I assumed there was a bad connection
> at the lights that, when wet, was shorting. But this started happening
> even in dry weather. Now it's to the point where, if I leave the
> headlights on for more than 15 minutes or so, they're sure to blow a
> fuse.
I think the fuse is supposed to be larger (35 amps comes to mind). Check
manuals and make sure of size. If someone replaced things with a smaller
fuse this could be the problem. The "runs awhile and then blows"
operation is typical for something working right at or just above the
rated fuse capacity. The change may be from one vendor vs another's
tolerence in ratings. It's also possible that the heat of a headlamp causes
an almost touching wire to move into connection with a ground. Instant
high current short.
> a pretty new Die-Hard. Sears confirmed that it's ruined
> and kindly discounted a purchase towards a new one.
Boy if that isn't a common thread. I have no intent to start a Sears
bashing, but your battery situation has been experienced by many.
>
> But I have a multimeter, and if someone can give me a few pointers,
> maybe I can sort this out.
Most meters won't handle the amperage requirements for even the accessory
circuits of an auto (mine has a 10 amp range). Finding a higher range
meter at a surplus house or building one with a shut for your meter could
be useful for the headlight fuse issue. Put the meter in series with
the fuse which blows -- turn things on and watch the current level.
Joe
flake@d311510.atl.hp.com
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