Josh writes...
>
> I need to drive the MG now.
>
> problem that began
> appearing in October. Now and then, the car wouldn't start. It's as
> if the battery were dead -- I put in a new battery after the engine
> rebuld last winter. I heard the solenoid click, the engine turn for
> a fraction of a second, the lights dim, and then nothing.
OK, who solves it first....
This and the ongoing description sounds like bad battery cables or
more likely bad connections at one end or the other. Part of the
hint is that lights dim -- indication of a voltage drop seen by that
part of the circuitry.
Since you replaced the battery when this all started, I'll give benefit
of doubt that the connections at the battery are in reasonable shape
and look to the other ends. One should go to ground, the other to the
starter solenoid. Check that they're clean and tight, and that the
cable itself is ok.
To use the multimeter to verify, put it (in volts mode) across both
sides of the connection. For example, one probe on the battery post
and the other to the cable end. Now have a helper bump the sarter. A
good connection will stay at about zero volts, a bad connection will cause
an indication of several (perhaps almost 12!) volts drop.
> Sometimes I'd give it a jump start, and it would come to life. After
> running a few minutes, it might start fine without the jump.
Heat causes things to tighten and/or move.
> hook up my battery charger. ... rated for
> 50Amps cranking power. If I tried starting it with the charger
> connected, the charger would click indicating I was pulling all 50
> amps it would give, but the engine wouldn't turn.
Perhaps the charger was connected in better than the battery (ie to
the battery cable vs the battery post, or to a big frame bolt vs the
battery ground post). A 50 amp charger would be a big boost to a weak
battery, but probably not enough to start the car by itself. This
takes 100+ amps.
Good luck, let us know what you find.
Joe Flake
flake@d311510.atl.hp.com
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