========================= LUCAS =======================
Rob Reilly asks about a beginning date for Lucas's *reputation*.
To some degree, it might well depend on the part concerned. My
experiences with Lucas electrics in over a dozen of my own LBCs,
and many, many others, have been quite positive (earthy pun
intended). I have seen only one generator replacement on any of
the LBCs in our family going back to 1959. I have, though,
replaced one or two sets of brushes on high-mileage generators.
I have had (or have seen) a few other parts fail at random, but
let's face it, some units with moving parts will wear out
eventually, especially high-use items such as turn signal
switches and horn brushes. (I've had one or two broken wires in
the latter; I don't think I've ever personally experienced a bad
horn button.)
I have seen a good number of Lucas parts fail due to misuse,
abuse, or misguided attempts to modify/repair a given unit. The
potential for disaster is stunning when a PO of my first TR3A
sought to -- I assume -- stop fuse blowing due to lots of bare
wires and bad patches by using a machine screw instead of a
fuse. I don't know what the amp rating is on a machine screw,
but I bet it's over 35 amps/17 amps continuous.
Perhaps my worst experience over the years has been with
alternators. Of the 2 GT6s and one Spitfire I've driven over the
years so equipped, each required replacement of the alternator
at some point. While I consider myself a fair Lucas electrical
system diagnostician, I've never understood alternators with
diodes and other wizardry. Fortunately, rebuilt units were
usually reasonable.
The fried wire harnesses and other components I've seen over the
years can almost always be attributed to owner- or mechanic-
created bodge jobs. We've all seen them, right?
I have seen the quality fall on parts that have an intentional
short life and/or are common to numbers of cars. One prime
example is contact point sets. In the 1970s, there was something
Lucas called Quikafit points sets (60041004) designed to fit
most Lucas distributors. They did, but they were nowhere near as
good as the older style. This may have been as much the fault of
bean counters as anyone else at J. Lucas. Face it, there are
places where soft, cheap nylon or other cheap plastic just won't
work as well or for as long as other materials.
I don't wish to naively defend Joseph and the boys. It's obvious
they went through much the same as any other British automotive
manufacturer or supplier: labor problems, cost cutting,
commonisation, changing and widely varying safety standards
around the world, changing markets, etc. etc. However, there is
one place where I would like to set the record straight: Not all
electrical components on even the most common LBCs were Lucas.
My own experience has been that the products of the *Clear
Hooters* company were as close to trash as anything you can
name, from any source! Case in point: the B(P)L recall in the
1970s of TR6, Spitfire and GT6 models to replace the headlight
switch (by Clear Hooters, and possibly THE WORST ELECTRICAL
SWITCH EVER MADE) with a Lucas part. The Lucas switch was
perhaps not perfect, but it was an A- compared to the Clear
Hooters F. Their horns were always pretty awful, too.
Many years ago, my (now) wife gave my a small, plug into the
lighter type, air compressor for Christmas, made by
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Interdynamics (?). It has worked well to this day. Once, though,
I spent much time trying to figure out why it had stopped
working. I finally pulled out the little rocker switch and
discovered it had disintegrated inside. Guess the country of
origin? Yes, England. (There was no brand name on it, but it
bears an uncanny resemblance to other Clear Hooters switches
I've seen).
Does any of this help, Rob?
Andy --I memorized the Lucas color code YEARS ago-- Mace
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