The best I can tell, the play should be less that 1/4"
top to bottom on the mounted tire, i.e. grab tire at
the top and bottom while suspended and rock in/out.
I decided to replace mine when it reached 2" of slop.
Low price is $100 for removing/replacing the bearing.
There is some risk with doing this and you certainly
need to have someone who's done it before. Seems you
need a special puller and a 2 ton press to reassemble.
I paid TRF about $175 for a rebuilt one with a new U-joint.
Replace the other U while in there, or go ahead and replace
all 6, diff mounting donuts and pinion seal (and 2 spline
joint boots which rip as you pull it out!).
TR6 REAR SPRING RECYCLE - Triumph changed the TR6 rear
suspension in mid-year '71, the replacement springs ONLY
fit the later cars (regardless of what TRF says), so
if you have the '69, '70, early '71 or even 250, what do
you use for rear springs? My theory is that the later
springs once aged 20 years, sag about 1/2" loaded, and
the earlier springs were about 1/2" shorter loaded than
the later ones. Therefor, a set of well worn later springs
will work great on the early 6's. They are stiffer than the
originals and give a slightly negative camber. My late
'71 with new original springs and the '70 with the old
'71 springs now sit and handle the same.
Anyone having the original spec's for the loaded spring
heights is welcome to respond. I'd like the FINAL answer.
The only gripe I have with TRF in 3 years of buying from
them is their rear spring story. After 3 faxes, 5 telephone
calls and one email over 2 years concerning the danger of
selling the later springs for earlier cars, I gave up.
They never admitted that these springs aren't correct.
Maybe it was just the set of springs I bought, but driving
a TR6 which looks and handles like a drag racer is not my
idea of a safe move. Other than this issue, TRF is a real
joy to deal with. After $5,000.00 of parts, I should know.
Roger
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