Comments to multiple posts follow. (hey, it comes in as a digest :)
TR6 Z-S carbs:
It is quite normal for the needles to be adjusted almost two max
rich. As an assembly preset, I put them two turns up from fluch with
the bridge. Total adjustment is about three turns. If the carbs are
running lean after a rebuild, I can think of three possibles:
1> a major vacuum leak was created somewhere.
2> The float level is way too low
3> The incorrect gaskets (or none) where installed behind the temp
compensator.
I wouldn't mess with the compensator except as a last resort. Also, do
not take it off and cover the hole created. This thing changes the mixture
by regulating an *internal* air passage that bleeds asir around the piston/
bridge. By pulling it out and covering the external hole, you leave the
internal one wide open. Full lean. BTW, carb cleaner does work good at
finding vacuum leaks. And I've never had a flameup. :>
Also, don't mess with that spring, it, along with the needle shape, control
the mixture curve. Changing the spring won't aftect idle very much, but could
really screw up the high end.
On SS Jaguar
The company was originally called Swallow Sidecars. When the company branched
out into the motorcar field, the vehicles were called SS-Jaguar. Then WW-II
intervened. When prduction resumed in 46 or so, the name SS seemed no longer
tasteful, so the name was shortened to just "Jaguar" (or so I've read :)
On Transverse-leaf sprung front suspensions
Yep, such a design was used many years ago. Fiat used it on many cars, ranging
from the '36 Topolino to the '73 850 Spyder/Coupe. The advantage was low
profile, and relative unsprung weight. The disadvantages are lots of wasted
space (spring has to be contiguous the width of the car), poor suspension
geometry control (the thing is supposed to bend, but which way?), and the
forces acting on the central frame mount are incrediable. This required a
fairly massive structure.
TR3 Brakes, and DOT5 silly-fluid
1> Master cyl is playing games with you. Might want to take it apart again
and verify that they anti-return seal is intact, the pressure seal is okay
(and the right way around), and that the seals are the right ones. Girling
made many different size masters. If the seals are for one size smaller,
it will almost work. Oh, take the cap off and have someone step on the
pedal. If you see a squirl in the fluid, the anti-return isn't working.
2> I assume that you pushed the caliper pistons all the way into the bores. If
so, check you current pad to rotor clearance. If it's still large, I'll
tell you a story about a Healey 3000 Mk2 and repo brake kits.
Randy
|