gfd@akguc.att.com writes:
> before I convert to an all-electric, battery-powered LBC and use
> my Z-S carbs for bookends.
Not a bad idea, let me know if you decide to convert your TR6 to
electric. I'd be interested in the results! :-)
> The carbs have always had the needles fully retracted (rich) into
> the barrel since I purchased the car about one year ago. The car
Mine too.
> ran pretty well with a good mixture judged by its performance and
> the lift-the-piston 1/4" mixture check.
Mine ran rich before my carb rebuild, now they are running lean. I
will be fixing this soon though, and I have some ideas that I'm going
to try that might help ya out.
> 1. Can I move the needles beyond the vernier adjustment?
I dunno, but I wouldn't recommend it anyway. You have an air leak
somewhere, and that should be found to promote consistent running.
> 2. Is there any thing to fiddle with in the temp compensator on
> the side of the carb?
Uh, I have fiddled with mine. Since you are running lean, you may
want to get the car warm, (not hot) and seat the temp compensator. As
the carbs get warm it opens up to let the car run a bit leaner. Use a
tiny socket to gently seat the compensator in the housing. Hey, you
might try just taking the damn thing off and putting a piece of duct
tape over it. Be sure that it doesn't get sucked into the carb
though. If your car starts to run rich, you've found your problem...
> 3. Can I get richer needles for the Z-S 175's, and how do you
> replace them?
I think you can, and you just take the pistons out from the top, (4
screws on the carb top) and put the new needle in. You just use your
special tool (long allen wrench) to screw the needle all the way out.
I would save this option as a last resort.
> 4. Is there anything to be gained by stiffening the piston
> springs, the long slinky ones?
I think that this will mainly change the responsiveness of the carbs.
Although a lighter spring might help it run a wee bit richer, I
wouldn't mess with that until you find your air leaks.
> Any advice on my problem is appreciated. Until then I guess its
> duct tape.
OK, 60 lines later, here's a trick I heard from a mechanic. I haven't
tried it yet, but I think I might when the weekends around here dry
up. Get a fire extinguisher and put it where you can reach it.
(Always a good idea when working on carbs...) Take a spray can of
carb cleaner (NOT Starter Fluid) with the directional tube attached.
Start your car, let it warm up, and let it idle. Then spray just a
bit of carb cleaner in different places on the intake and on the
carbs. When you hear the engine speed up, you've found an air leak!
What bothers me about this on a TR6 is that hot exhaust manifold is
right under the intake. I don't know about you, but it really kinda
bugs me that I'm spraying flammable fluid right next to a hot exhaust
manifold. If you try this just remember what you are doing. Don't
spray alot of fluid around, and don't get into a hurry. Good Luck and
let us know when you get that kitten purring.
-Scott
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