british-cars
[Top] [All Lists]

More TR4 transmission/clutch/suspension questions

To: passaretti@crd.ge.com
Subject: More TR4 transmission/clutch/suspension questions
From: John Wroclawski <jtw@lcs.mit.edu>
Date: Tue, 21 Apr 92 21:54:11 -0400
   From: "Mr. Mike" Passaretti <mrmike@fsserv.ge.com>

I'm thinking this is a TR4. If we're talking about something later,
probably lots of this is wrong...

   1) Looks like there's an adjustment for the clutch re-assembly
      that I don't have a spec for.  I don't have special tool
      number XXX-XXX (The plate, actuator, etc) that the bentley
      manual calls for in putting this thing together, so I don't
      have any idea what the distancing of the lever arms from the
      top of the casing (or other convenient spot) should be.  Any
      wisdom on re-assembling the non-diaphram TR clutch would be
      nice.  It's my first clutch of this style, and I confess to
      being a bit worried (and I'm out of homebrew).

Did you take the clutch cover assembly apart? (Why?) If not, there is
nothing to adjust. If so, you can, in a pinch, adjust the lever arms
by using a _new_ clutch driven plate. Assemble everything as it would
be in the car (with the driven plate between the clutch cover and the
flywheel, and making sure that the driven plate is centered
correctly). Tighten the cover plate to flywheel bolts to the correct
torque.  Then adjust the levers so the tips are (TR3 spec, I think
it's the same) 1.895 inches from the flywheel. Take it apart, rotate
the cover plate 90 degrees on the flywheel, bolt it down again, and
check the measurements.

This is not as accurate as using the gauge plate, of course. I've
never met anyone that had a gauge plate...

   2) The "nose" no my new tranny is about .4" shorter than the one
      on the old one.

Is it the same diameter?

Also: the carrier for the clutch throwout bearing is different on
transmissions used with diaphragm and coil-spring clutches. Make sure
you have the right one.

   4) Since my 'murrican car spring compressors won't work on the
      TR, anybody got a line on the style that they recommend?
      (The shock absorber replacement sort of thang).  Maybe another
      entry in the magic TRF price list that I don't know how to find?
      (I suppose I could call them, but I was here, and I thought 
      someone might know already).

Yep, it's in there. 39.95 or so. A couple of people have written about
how to get the things apart with a jack. I haven't killed myself yet
doing this, but it seems to be getting scarier as I get older.
Sometimes hard to put together with a jack, too.

You can make a perfectly good spring compressor from a length of 5/8
threaded steel rod, three nuts, a 1/4 steel plate, and some big thick
washers. Basically you shape and drill the plate to fit over the four
studs of the lower shock mount, then drill 5/8 hole in the center for
the rod.  Put two of the nuts on one end of the rod, and tighten them
against each other to lock in place. (Better: use only one, and weld
it). Now, to compress the spring, you put the steel plate over the
shock mounting studs, then slide the rod through the plate, through
the shock tower, and out the top. Put a big washer or two on the rod
from the top, add a nut, and tighten the whole thing up until you can
get the A-arms off. Make sure the rod is long enough that you can
completely release the spring tension before the top nut comes all the
way off...

                                -john
                                 jtw@lcs.mit.edy




<Prev in Thread] Current Thread [Next in Thread>