>Hello fellow british car enthusiasts! I just became an owner of a
>1976 TR6 as of last night, but have been an all around british car
>person for about 10 years. Anyway, as an owner of a british car, I
>don't have the slightest idea who makes the best shop manuals for this
>particular car. Any pointers would be appreciated.
Haynes and/or Bentley shop manuals are the best you can get.
Neither is perfect, but with one (preferably both) in your
library, you should be OK on most, if not all, repair operations.
>So, without a shop manual, I'm a bit timid to dive in and start
>adjusting things. The clutch disengages only when the clutch peddle
>is put all the way to the floor. (the clutch peddle is somewhat hard
>to push as well, is that normal for a TR6?) I would like the clutch
>to engage a bit higher than 1/2 inch from the floor. Can this
>adjustment be described to me? or can ya'll point me to the right
>place to find the answer? I have done quite a bit of work on my
>Honda, (including clutch replacement) so I'm not new to car work, but
>I am new to british engineering. :-)
Essentially, the TR-6 clutch does NOT have any adjustment.
The rod and fork that connects the clutch slave cylinder to
the clutch itself is a fixed length affair (unlike the ones
found on TR-3 and TR-4). The condition you describe tends
to be the case with a new clutch replacement, at least for
an initial "breakin" period.
The problem could, however, be the result of insufficient
movement of the rod and fork due to several possible
situaltions:
1. Too much wear in the connecting points of the connecting
fork,
2. Insufficient clutch hydraulic motion (clutch master cyclinder
and/or clutch slave cylinder,)
3. Too much wear on the clutch release fork contact points
(inside the bellhousing, not readily visible without pulling
the transmission.)
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Bill Sohl (K2UNK) || email
Bellcore, Morristown, NJ || UUCP bcr!taichi!whs70
(Bell Communications Research) || or
201-829-2879 Weekdays || Internet whs70@taichi.cc.bellcore.com
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