At 09:17 AM 4/24/2011, Greg Schroeder wrote:
>... I left out a few details. I rebuilt the engine a couple of
years ago. I replaced the oil pump
>gears. I cannot remember if I change the oil pump valve spring. I
believe I did, but I will
>have to see if I kept all the parts to see if the spring was replaced.
>
Greg,
Well that should rule out worn bearings.
I'd spend the money (<$20) for a mechanical oil press. gauge and an
adapter to put it on with
the electrical sending unit. I trust the mechanical gauges more than
I trust the electrical ones.
This would let you know how close the electrical one is. After you
see what the idle pressure
really is, then you can remove the mechanical gauge.
>... Now my trips are around 10 to 15 miles one way. Normally on the
return is when this
>occurs and only at idle. I feel like at every stop sign and
traffic light it will die. When the car
>is being driven and not stopped the oil pressure is fine. It is
just as the engine gets to temp
>the idle drops a few RPM's and then the oil pressure light flickers
or stays on. In some cases
>the engine will die and have to be restarted.
If I remember correctly, the oil pressure should be something like
10psi for every 1k of rpms,
up to some limit and then the pressure gets bled off in the pump.
So as long as it is about 8 psi or above at idle, I'd say you are fine.
>The idle after the choke is off is around 800-900 RPM's (based on
the tach). It will drop down
>when put in gear and the air turned on to around 600-700 RPM's. It
drives and accelerates
>fine with no issues. After driving for a while it will drop even
more and start this problem.
While 600-700 is fine, you could pump it up a little.
Is the solenoid on the carb firing and set properly?
John Lodge and I played with several at Lexington.
John
John T. Blair WA4OHZ email: jblair1948@cox.net
Va. Beach, Va
Phone: (757) 495-8229
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