Take the car down to your muffler shop and get ceramic coated pipes
installed
I really cuts down on the heat.
Larry in LV
#2046
----- Original Message -----
From: "Greg Schroeder" <gschroeder@comcast.net>
To: "Rick at High Tech Coatings" <rick@hightechcoatings.com>; "bl"
<bricklin@autox.team.net>
Sent: Monday, June 14, 2010 7:17 PM
Subject: Re: [Bricklin] Floorboard heat
> Rick,
>
> I had thought about that. I was looking for something like a computer
> heat
> sink with fins to help them cool, but I have not found anything that was
> close enough to wrap around and exhaust pipe. The problem is really space
> to do anything and I guess if there was space this would not be an issue.
>
> I had a custom exhaust made hoping a little larger pipe would help get the
> heat out. I did the lizard skin thing all the way behind the seats. I
> was
> thinking past that would not be an issue. I believe it has worked some.
> I
> have installed the new parking brake boot and that seems to be working.
> It
> was like a small chimney before.
>
> I realigned the drivers door last night trying to get a tighter fit and
> looked for holes to plug in the firewall. I only found two small pin size
> holes. My door has a tighter fit now which should help with any outside
> air
> getting in to help the engine heat throught he floor. My door does not
> close as smoothly as before, but I may have to live with that. Not much
> room to move the D-ring.
>
> I have shorty headers and was not planning on wrapping those. I was
> mainly
> focusing on the exhaust pipe down to the transmission cross member. I had
> found some wrap that was good to 2000 degrees. I believe if I could get
> 10-20 degrees difference in the floorboard it would not be worse than any
> other car.
>
> I may try to take a longer trip tomorrow. The engine is running better
> since I have resolved the charging issue. I am not sure if that is making
> it run cooler or not, but at least I know I have enough battery to restart
> the car if I turn it off.
>
> Greg 0036
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