At 09:14 AM 7/20/03 -0700, you wrote:
>Well, the saga continues, but I've made progress. I discovered that when I
>removed the stop/hazard fuse, I measured resistance. Great. So now I know
>the problem is in the stop/hazard circuit. I then reinstalled the fuse and
>unplugged both tail lights. Still read 0 ohms, so the problem is not there.
>I then unplugged the brake light switch at the brake pedal; still 0 ohms. I
>unplugged the flasher but still got 0 ohms. Any recommendations as to where
>to go from here?
Rod,
You say you "unplugged both tail lights". Do you mean you pulled the bulb
and sockets out of the tail light housing? If so, I don't think that breaks
the circuit. Since this is a fiberglass car, they have to run a ground wire.
There are 2 connectors for the rear harness under the dash. One is a 12 pin
flat connector, the other is a 3 pin connector. Then there are 2 connectors
under the driver side rear quarter panel cover.
I'd try unplugging the connectors under the dash, one at a time, and see what
happens. If you get resistance, reconnect then, then I'd go to the
connector under the quarter panel. and repeat.
The rear harness from the connectors under the drivers quarter panel feed
the tail lights (stop, side marker, and turn signals, the license plate
lights, and the fuel gauge.
You can try starting the car and see if any of the lights are on. Does you
fuel gauge work?
You can also try removeing the bulbs from their sockets and see what
happens.
It could be your backup lights are on - meaning that the nutral park safety
switch is out of adjustment or broken.
John
John T. Blair WA4OHZ email: jblair@exis.net
Va. Beach, Va Phone: (757) 495-8229
48 TR1800 48 #4 Midget 65 Morgan 4/4 Series V
75 Bricklin SV1 (#0887) 77 Spitfire 71 Saab Sonett III
65 Rambler Classic
Morgan: www.team.net/www/morgan
Bricklin: www.bricklin.org
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