> Thanks for the insights Rick. I have my 74' Brick complete disassembled
> down to the frame and am installing a Chevy 305 TPI so oil pan clearance
> shouldn't be a problem (though inference between the distributor and
> firewall might).
The oil pan should be less of a problem with the chev as the oil pump is in
the rear of the pan. to change the current front steer to rear steer you ca
unbolt the steering arm from the spindle and swap sides and put them on so
you now have a rear steer. one thing to watch for when choosing your rack is
the tie rod end taper and size, make sure you can get outers that both fit
the rack and the taper on the steering arm. You may want to look at on out
of a late model Camaro as the pump should easily bolt up to the engine and
the car is about the same weight and it should have a sporty feel. I'm not
sure of size or travel of this rack. A lot of rodders use either a mustang 2
rack because they are relatively small and easy to work with. they are
readily available in both new and reman. This rack isn't my first choice as
it came from a much smaller lighter car and I don't know if it work well
with the heavy brick. a late model mustang rack may also be a choice (closer
to the weight of brick) but I don't about compatibility with the chev pump
but you could always make some bracket to fit the ford pump to the chev.
I actually thought for a day or 2 about putting a late model mustang front
suspension on the brick. The shock towers (with a brace should handle the
front struts, and aftermarket tubular K member could be stretched (or
shrunk) to fit and tubular control arms used. The complete kit to fit a late
model mustang can be had from several suppliers for $600-1000 (depending on
options). There a couple of bonuses doing it this way. First you use easy to
get late model parts, and second but maybe more important you get rid of the
strut arms giving you much more clearance for the exhaust (headers).
Rick
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