My $.02,
I'd start by removing all the spark plugs and then doing a compression test
on every cylinder. While you're doing this test, you can observe how fast
the engine turns over without the spark plugs and observe if the oil
pressure comes up while cranking. In my experience, recently rebuilt
engines that exhibit this symptom either have too much compression, weren't
assembled with enough lubricant on all the bearings, and/or the tolerances
are too tight. If you don't have good oil pressure during cranking (without
the spark plugs), don't run the engine until you determine the cause.
Moreover, you may have more than one factor working against you. For
example, timing too far advanced can cause what you're describing. Perhaps
the rebuilder didn't put the distributor back in the right place. A new
engine might be tight, and that can be okay, but combine that with
over-advanced timing, insufficient lubrication, etc. and the thing won't
run.
Stephen I. Early
Portfolio Conversions
Hallmark Information Services
MBNA America
302.457.4788
800.441.7048 x74788
stephen.early@mbna.com
-----Original Message-----
From: Ken Thompson [mailto:kthompson@totalaccess.net]
Sent: Friday, November 16, 2001 5:28 AM
To: Bricklin Mailing List
Subject: Tight Engine
The 360 in my 74 Bricklin seems very tight and maybe there are other issues
with it. I can't turn the engine over by hand using a socket on the
crankshaft pulley bolt. I have been able to turn it with the starter and
have it run for short periods-15 seconds. The starter also has a difficult
time turning the engine over and the engine seems to kick back-like it is
very tight and/or has a timing problem. The PO told me the engine had been
rebuilt but I don't place a lot of confidence in that source. The last time
I had it running, I got a lot of "hammering" or sharp preignition type
sounds and turned it off.
Any suggestions on where to start?
Ken # 46
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