GELCOAT is NOT PAINT,it is what is on the surface of A RAW Fiberglass part
BEFORE any paint is applied,(when you get a fiberglass part you will notice
it has a shiny finish,in different colors,well that is a Gelcoat finish) the
first thing applied in the making of fiberglass parts is a release agent in
the mold,THEN GEL-COAT (it comes in different colors)then the fiberglassmat
is applied in the mold,then you let it cure,and what you have is the same
way Bricklin panels were made except instead of the Gel.coat Malcom used
Acrylic(to get the color finish),well this is the SAME process,and I could
leave it that way but gel-coating is sensitive to light,The problem with
Acylic is it has
different expansion rates(if any)than fiberglass,in other words,fiberglass
will expand(and bend) at different rates,vs acrylic which is very rigdit,and
will crack under certain extremes,when the fiberglass bends,the acrylic
cracks,that is just the facts of life about Bricklins,it was a poor idea for
a finish on a car,and that is why Tarry Tanner came out with Gel-coated
replacement panels.What I did, bascially WAS APPLY A NEW RESIN-GELCOAT BODY
OVER THE ORIGNAL BODY NO KIND/or form OF PAINT Gelcoat, Imron, Poly,
whatever you name it, WAS USED.
Claude
vin1136 GELCOATED NOT painted
----- Original Message -----
From: alphachi <alphachi@writeme.com>
To: <Bricklin@autox.team.net>
Sent: Wednesday, October 18, 2000 1:38 AM
Subject: More on panels, re: Claude's gel coat
> No Claude, this is not what I'm talking about at all, you had a painted
> Brick, Gelcoat, Imron, Poly, whatever you name it, it's still painted.
What
> I am talking about here is actual acrylic repair, not gelcoat, and the
color
> could be matched without coating the whole car. If this was accomplished,
> you could have maintained the integrity of the original Brick finish,
rather
> than another painted one. Like I said, for some, obviously like yourself,
a
> painted one is just fine, and that's ok. You do point out another option.
> But for others, it would be great to have a Bricklin body more true to the
> original. Think about it, a green acrylic bodied Brick intact and
flawless
> presents a lot more value than just another painted B.
> stephan #2821
>
> >
> > Take a look at the Files menu under
> > http://www.egroups.com/group/BRICKLINEWS and you will see exactly what
you
> > just mentioned,you will see a drivers door that the acrylic was in
> > pieces(held together by Duct Tape)(when the car was green)and the after
> > photos after the repair was completed and the Bricklin was
> > Gel-coated(white),this was done in early 1998,(this was a very rough car
> as
> > it was always outside from its birth, till I got it,it was used as a
> > everyday transporation untill 1991)and so far it is still in excellent
> > condition,with no signs of new cracking,as the repair was done without
> > removing the acrylic.
> >
> > Regards
> > Claude
> > Vin#1136
> > The gel-coated white Bricklin (was factory green)
> >
> > ----- Original Message -----
> > From: alphachi <alphachi@writeme.com>
> > To: <Bricklin@autox.team.net>
> > Sent: Tuesday, October 17, 2000 12:35 PM
> > Subject: Re: Another call for any bad scrap pieces of Bricklin panels
> >
> >
> > > Hi Marvin,
> > > Well, one thing at a time. Fiberglass repair is another issue,
> > > especially at a stress point. However, the majority of acrylic
> problems
> > > are simple cracks and checking and has yet to be resolved. If you can
> get
> > a
> > > piece to Miami, just one, with some of these characteristics, it
should
> be
> > > enough for them to work with and for us to find out if it can be done.
> > > stephan #2821
> > > .
> > > ----- Original Message -----
> > > From: <Maycinc@cs.com>
> > > To: <alphachi@writeme.com>
> > > Sent: Tuesday, October 17, 2000 12:20 PM
> > > Subject: Re: Another call for any bad scrap pieces of Bricklin panels
> > >
> > >
> > > > Stephan,
> > > > I have a white passger door panel that is broken in 2 piceces where
it
> > > bends
> > > > at the roofline. What would be really great is if it could be put
> back
> > > > together and look original. Don't know what it would cost to mail
it
> > from
> > > > Utah to Florida but I could check.
> > > > Marvin
> > > > #1343
> > > >
> > > > In a message dated 10/12/00 9:50:49 PM Pacific Daylight Time,
> > > > alphachi@writeme.com writes:
> > > >
> > > >
> > > > > A second call.
> > > > >
> > > > > Here in Miami, there are loads of shops that repair acrylic tubs
in
> an
> > > array
> > > > > of matched and custom colors. I have faith that if anyone can
> manage
> > to
> > > > > send me a bad scrap piece of panel that has NOT, repeat NOT been
> > > painted, I
> > > > > can start to go around and see what can be done. To date we have
3
> > > > > options, either live with cracks, re-body in fiberglass, or
repaint
> > and
> > > > > wait for cracks to re-appear unless we pamper our car.
> > > > >
> > > > > To do a re-body in fiberglass is very expensive and time
consuming,
> > then
> > > > > painting it, and then, etc. etc....and in the end, it's still just
> > > > > fiberglass. I'm not saying this is a bad choice, just not one
many
> > may
> > > > > prefer if there were another option.
> > > > >
> > > > > I've seen these resurfacing jobs and they are impressive. They
> > > withstand
> > > > > the weight, stress, and flex, along with temperature extremes far
> > > greater
> > > > > than that of a typical car body. The resurfaced tubs resemble the
> > > original
> > > > > finish perfectly. And there's no reason to think in cannot be
done
> > > with
> > > > > the panels ON the car. I've watched these repairs on tubs, and in
> > many
> > > > > ways, it's simpler to complete than a fine finish of good paint!
> And
> > > I've
> > > > > never known resurfacing not to last, even over cracked and stained
> > tubs.
> > > > > All We need is some scrap pieces and shops willing to give it a
try.
> > > > >
> > > > > With what is at stake, it certainly seems worth the effort.
> > > > >
> > > > > stephan #2821
> > > >
> > > >
> > >
> > >
> >
> >
> >
> >
>
>
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