bricklin
[Top] [All Lists]

Re: Finally got my window to work -- for free

To: "Olson, Scott" <scottolson@cascon.com>, "'K M'" <symbiotic@hotmail.com>,
Subject: Re: Finally got my window to work -- for free
From: "Greg Monfort" <wingracer@email.msn.com>
Date: Tue, 31 Mar 1998 17:26:44 -0500
I purchased the regulator channel, "new" window holder channel
>with cork and a new? window.  In an attempt to put the window in
the
>car.  I had the window channel welded to the regulator slide
channel by
>a friend's professional shop (looks good).
===========
In reading the various posts on windows, I've been wondering about
the position of the channel. As I understand the posts, the channel
is being installed so that the bottom of the glass sits in the
channel, correct? Is this the way of the original, or the
aftermarket piece? My '75 has the  side of the glass bonded to the
side of the channel, same as original. This allows a flexible joint
between the glass / channel for the angularity changes that occur
during operation. Mine failed rather quick from poor alignment in
'80, but (knock on wood!) are still doing fine after rebonding.
===========

> I put the system into the door, (Are there any hints as to how
>to get more working room in the door?)
===========
I don't see how, without removing the door skin.
===========
I got the window positioned in
>the door and in the channel and currently have it rolled all the
way up.
>However, when I roll the window down, the glass does not stay with
the
>channel.  My questions  are:
>
>1) Do you glue the window into the channel (cork insert) while the
>arrangement is in the door or out of the door?
>2) If you are to glue it in the door,  how do you get your hands
>into the door to place the glue?

===========
I'm not familiar with this layout, but I would think the cork would
be used to wedge the glass in place. If glue is required, then the
cork wouldn't be necessary. In looking at my Chevy truck, a channel
is mounted to the side of the regulator. The channel has a "U"
shaped flexible insert that the glass is wedged into. I can't tell
for sure if the channel is slightly crimped to hold the glass or
not, but the dealer says the glass doesn't come with the channel.
===========
>3) How hard is it to remove the regulator to "tune it up" and what
>is recommended there.
===========
If you mean get it out of the door, I don't recall having any
trouble. As for "tuning it up", I assume you mean bending it for
better alignment. I did this with it in the door. I don't know what
else would be necessary.
===========

>
>4) Has anyone successfully installed power windows?
===========
Not that I'm aware of.
===========
>
>5) Door latch solenoids:  All I have is the interior handle.  All
>other latch equipment is gone.  The latches, solenoid, and latch
plate
>don't exist.  I need to know what I need to buy and how it works.
===========
Based solely on what I've read recently, I would opt for Terry
Tanners' air solenoid system.
===========
  Do
>the solenoids actuate both electronically and via the manual
unlatch.
===========
Yes.
===========
>Does the door handle send a signal that can be used to open the
door?
===========
No, the door handle only manually trips the latch.
>
>6) Is it just me or is the Bricklin one of the worst cars to be in
>if you start to sink in water.  I don't plan on doing this, but has
>anyone tried fitting into the car through the windows?
===========
I've read where others have fit through the windows, but not me. I'm
able to lift the door and enter / exit. I have gone out through the
rear hatch though, just to see if I could do it.

GM








<Prev in Thread] Current Thread [Next in Thread>