>
>I purchased the regulator channel, "new" window holder channel
>>with cork and a new? window. In an attempt to put the window in
>the
>>car. I had the window channel welded to the regulator slide
>channel by
>>a friend's professional shop (looks good).
>===========
>In reading the various posts on windows, I've been wondering about
>the position of the channel. As I understand the posts, the channel
>is being installed so that the bottom of the glass sits in the
>channel, correct? Is this the way of the original, or the
>aftermarket piece? My '75 has the side of the glass bonded to the
>side of the channel, same as original. This allows a flexible joint
>between the glass / channel for the angularity changes that occur
>during operation. Mine failed rather quick from poor alignment in
>'80, but (knock on wood!) are still doing fine after rebonding.
>===========
>
>> I put the system into the door, (Are there any hints as to how
>>to get more working room in the door?)
>===========
>I don't see how, without removing the door skin.
>===========
>I got the window positioned in
>>the door and in the channel and currently have it rolled all the
>way up.
>>However, when I roll the window down, the glass does not stay with
>the
>>channel. My questions are:
>>
>>1) Do you glue the window into the channel (cork insert) while the
>>arrangement is in the door or out of the door?
>>2) If you are to glue it in the door, how do you get your hands
>>into the door to place the glue?
>
>===========
>I'm not familiar with this layout, but I would think the cork would
>be used to wedge the glass in place. If glue is required, then the
>cork wouldn't be necessary. In looking at my Chevy truck, a channel
>is mounted to the side of the regulator. The channel has a "U"
>shaped flexible insert that the glass is wedged into. I can't tell
>for sure if the channel is slightly crimped to hold the glass or
>not, but the dealer says the glass doesn't come with the channel.
>===========
>>3) How hard is it to remove the regulator to "tune it up" and what
>>is recommended there.
>===========
>If you mean get it out of the door, I don't recall having any
>trouble. As for "tuning it up", I assume you mean bending it for
>better alignment. I did this with it in the door. I don't know what
>else would be necessary.
>===========
>
>>
>>4) Has anyone successfully installed power windows?
>===========
>Not that I'm aware of.
>===========
>>
>>5) Door latch solenoids: All I have is the interior handle. All
>>other latch equipment is gone. The latches, solenoid, and latch
>plate
>>don't exist. I need to know what I need to buy and how it works.
>===========
>Based solely on what I've read recently, I would opt for Terry
>Tanners' air solenoid system.
>===========
> Do
>>the solenoids actuate both electronically and via the manual
>unlatch.
>===========
>Yes.
>===========
>>Does the door handle send a signal that can be used to open the
>door?
>===========
>No, the door handle only manually trips the latch.
>>
>>6) Is it just me or is the Bricklin one of the worst cars to be in
>>if you start to sink in water. I don't plan on doing this, but
has
>>anyone tried fitting into the car through the windows?
>===========
>I've read where others have fit through the windows, but not me.
I'm
>able to lift the door and enter / exit. I have gone out through the
>rear hatch though, just to see if I could do it.
>
>GM
>
>
>
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