At 02:59 AM 3/20/98 EST, Godly Krew wrote:
Riley, I can't help much with any of the questions before #5 (except #3)
as the air system was stolen out of my car before I got it.
>3: The air tank for the rear bumper on '75 models came with the car,
>right? Or is that something separate? Where is the "connector" for
>input and output of air?
The air tank comes with the air door kit. It is a large heavy metal
box that welds on the the rear bumper mounting pads. I beleive they
are both on the pass side of the tank.
>5: What exactly does the vacuum pump do for the air doors and are there
>supposed to be any electrical connections to it? All i see are a barbed
>input fitting and an output fitting...no place for electrical...
Not trying to be flipant, but the vacuum pump is the compressor and it
is run off of engine vacuum. Therefore no electrical connections!
>
>6: RUST.JPG is a photo of the drivers side in front of the windshield
>that is normally covered by the hood. This looks really bad and there
>are "flakes" that need to be removed. What type of equipment should I
>use to get that stuff outta there? I'm not sure a dirt devil will
>accept this stuff....
RUST.JPG didn't come as an attachment so we can't see what you are
talking about. However, for starters, check out my 2 articles on the
web page about "Fighting Rust" & "Rust, Its not supposed to happen to a
Bricklin" for starters. After that you might have a less general
question.
>
>7: How in the world are you supposed to align the gullwing doors? The
>drivers side door seems way outta whack. there's too much space in
>front, and too little in back...I've tried alighning the door, but its
>just not working....
In a nut shell, you don't! You send it to Terry or Bob. Seriously
Riley, it is a real art form. I beleive that you try to get the back
seam as clean as you can, then you remove/replace the "A" pillars to
clean up the front seams, and adjust the fenders. I'll see if I can't
find some info and put together an article for one of the comming issues
of The Brickline.
>Also, We had to tap new threads for the bolts cause the old ones were
>stripped. What type of bolts should I use to get the door as low as
>possible when closed so that the bolts do not make contact with the
>weatherstripping?
Terry has a special bolt that he uses. Can't remember the name.
>
>Also, My car hasn't had any of the "Aftermarket" updates such as the
>leaks in the firewall. I can feel cold air coming down from where the
>headlight swicth is, but its not coming towards me as I thought it
>would...its going towards the floor! is this normal?
Before you reinstall the interior, but have all the wiring and all the
other things that penatrate the firewall in place, you need to get some
plumbers puddy and place it over and around each hole and wire. That
should cut down on the air flow into the car. However, the light switch
is attached to the dash board and really doesn't go near the firewall.
So I don't know why or how you are feeling any air near it. Unless you
have a bad vacuum line connectoin. But that shouldn't be blowing air.
The only thing I can really think of is that the rust you were talking
about has eaten a hole through the sheetmetal and or you have a hole in
the plennumn. This would allow air into the drivers side of the cockpit.
>A list of all fixes/updates that could be done when I have the seats,
>carpet and dash out of the car would be excellent.
Have you check the FAQ on the Web page. I believe I have most of them
listed.
John
John T. Blair WA4OHZ email: jblair@exis.net
Va. Beach, Va Phone: (757) 495-8229
48 TR1800 65 Morgan 4/4 Series V
71 Saab Sonett III 75 Bricklin SV1 77 Spitfire
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