>>While you are at it, see if you can scare up an electrical wiring diagram
>
>I've looked for one before and asked Terry if he has one. He has a spare
>harness tacked on the wall that he uses for testing. He says that he's
>NOT aware of any wiring diags. anyplace.
Years ago when I converted to air doors, I did so because the door wiring
harness was basically a joke and had burned up because of improperly done
splicing in the harness. In my car the wiring wasn't routed efficiently
either. If you need a schematic / wiring diagram of just the door system let
me know.
>
>When I disassembled 887, I drew some sketches of the wiring runs etc. So
>far I think the only part I have finished is the dash board wiring, the
>engine wiring harness, and the rear harness. As I get the body back on
>the chassis and pull the wiring harness out, I hope to document it as
>I put it back in the car. Maybe some cold winters evenings when not in
>the garage or typing on the computer, I'll get a chance to draw up the
>diag.
>
>But don't let me stop you. If anyone beats me to that will be great!!!!
>
>Now as for stiffening the chassis. Had a discussion with Terry this
>afternoon about some of this. So of what we discussed are summarized
>here:
>
>
> 1. Stiffening chassis - Tested and was the strongest frame of
> any car made.
Strong how? Compared to what? In compressive tests compared to other cars in
it's class, probably. Landing on it's roof, probably. Torsional loads which
has the most impact on handling, I think not.
>
> 2. Really can't lower the car. Initial ground clearence is
> 4.5". Terry has lowered his to about 3". In addition the
> front end geometry can get really screwed up, which will
> cause all kinds of handling problems.
For sure! What tire / wheel combo does he use?
>
> 3. The Bricklin has been shown to be a better handling car on
> most of the drivers. In 74, Road & Track did a comparision
> of the 74 Vet and 74 Brick. The Vet out performed the Brick
> on the streights. But the Brick did better than the Vet on
> the cornering.
As I recall, R&T only did skid pad tests. Not terribly valid in street
handling. C&D tested '75s at Willow Springs where the 'vette's extra power
was less useful, but still managed to beat the Bricklin by 2 sec / lap! This
running only 20psi in the tires per GM specs. Pumped up to the 24psi of the
Bricklin would have increased the gap even further. I used to street race
regularly with 5 guys at work (this when the northside of Atlanta was still
God's country) who had 'vettes ranging from a '60 to a '76. The Bricklin was
not a contender.
>
>I'm not sure I'm qualified to really enter into this discussion, so I
>won't. And I'm not trying to stop anybody from playing. However, unless
>there is a real reason for a modification, I tend to rely on the
>manufactures designers. I figure that they know more about the design
>stuff than I do.
They probably do, but unfortunately they didn't get to apply most of it
courtesy of the bean counters, stylists, manufacturing, consumer surveys,
etc. in the 'good old days'. Today's cars are a whole different ball game.
Still built to a price, but sooo much better. It would be tough for a
hobbiest to improve much, if any, on current designs. About all one could do
would be to tune it for a particular character.
Thanks for the input.
GM
PS: Did you find the Power Steering hoses?
>
>John
>
>
>John T. Blair WA4OHZ email: jblair@exis.net
>Va. Beach, Va Phone: (757) 495-8229
>
>48 TR1800 48 #4 Midget 65 Morgan 4/4 Series V
> 75 Bricklin SV1 77 Spitfire
>
>
>
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