All,
Is there such a thing as binding in the rear
suspension of the first gen cars?
Could this be his problem? Could the car be
bottoming out?
I run 2#'s less in the rear than the front.
The actual pressure depends on the tyres run
and keeping even tread on the ground.
I have both bars 1.125 frt, and .625 rr.
Springs play a role as well. If they are
sagging then they will also make the car
handle bad.
Another thing is if the shocks are worn
this also causes problems.
So finding the baseline and correcting from
there is the most cost effective and productive
measure. Then with the help of others building
up the car as you progress.
jm2c's but lost the original senders mail
address.
cheers,
jack ~
> From autox-owner@autox.team.net Mon Jul 10 05:22:51 2000
> Date: Mon, 10 Jul 2000 07:21:55 -0500
> From: Tim Schuh <tim@wankel.net>
> To: CJ Bienert <rallyfan555@yahoo.com>
> Cc: autox@autox.team.net
> Subject: Re: 1st gen RX-7 setup
> Mime-Version: 1.0
>
> Smokerbros@aol.com wrote:
> > In a message dated 7/9/00 8:51:51 PM Pacific Daylight Time,
> > Mdmotorsprt@aol.com writes:
> >
> > << I too run a 1st Gen RX7: The quick and dirty? Your tire pressure should
> > be
> > reversed. They way you are right now, an RX7, or any car, will induce
> > oversteer. The RX7 is even more pronounced as the car's balance tends
>toward
> > oversteer. Solution? Higher pressure AT THE REAR! >>
> >
> > I absolutely disagree! I ran 34F/30R on BFG Comp T/A R1's with lots of
> > success (relatively speaking, considering the other cars classed in C/S)
>The
> > following is based on the assumption that your 7 is a GSL-SE. You
>definitely
> > need a large front bar, preferably the Ground Control adjustible bar,
>Tokico
> > Illuminas set to 5F/3-4R, make sure you keep the Limited Slip fairly tight
> > (within stock specs) and as much caster as you can get without interference
> > (assuming you have PS, the only way to go in my book.)
> >
> > Charlie Davis
>
> This is almost the exact setup I used last year in CS. With that
> configuration I had a hard time getting the rear wheels to spin
> without doing something really, really stupid. The biggest difference
> I found was with the front anti-roll bar which I bought from Mazda
> Competition Parts for about $130. Bang for the buck, this is the way
> to go. Tokico Illuminas were added before hand and while they did help
> dramatically, they were overshadowed by the anti-sway.
>
> I could throttle steer through tighter corners and hammer out of
> faster corners. The car transitioned quickly and kept it's foot
> planted once I learned how to drive. Body roll was significantly
> reduced over stock. I was having a blast chasing the MR-2's around CS
> until I failed emissions. Instead of spending $1,100 on a factory cat
> I bought an aftermarket cat and finished the season in CSP where I've
> spent even more money, gone even faster (me and my money) and have had
> as much fun as I did in CS even though competition is a little more
> scarce.
>
> Ok, I'm done yammering. Time for coffee....
>
> --
> Tim Schuh - http://www.wankel.net
> "If ya ain't hitting cones, ya ain't drivin' fast enough!" - Me
>
> SCCA Texas Region
> 84 Mazda Rx-7 GSL-SE - #14 C Street Prepared
> 93 Mazda Rx-7 base - Aftermarket everything
> 90 Dodge B250 Conversion - #1 Love-nasium and Tow Vehicle
>
> Dallas / Fort Worth Rx-7 list : dfw-rx7@wankel.net
> Dallas / Fort Worth Rx-7 webpage: dfwrx7.wankel.net
> QwikData Data Acquisition list : qwikdata@wankel.net
> QwikData Data Acquisition Docs : http://qwikdata.ugly.net
> Texas Region Autocross Video : http://autocross.ugly.net
>
|