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Re: End Link Fabracation

To: JoeT@ryersoncoil.com
Subject: Re: End Link Fabracation
From: GSMnow@aol.com
Date: Tue, 16 May 2000 14:35:02 EDT
Date: Mon, 15 May 2000 10:08:40 -0500
From: "Tharpe, Joe" 

<<Does anyone have a way to calculate the approximate forces exerted on the
swat bar end links based on the diameter of the bar?  I am looking at rod
ends for the first time and notice that they are rated based on static
loads.  I have no idea what loads the bar will create and wondered if there
is any way to estimate this information,
Any help would be greatly appreciated. >>

The simple safe rule of thumb is to use rod ends rated for the weight of the 
vehicle. You may get away with a bit smaller, but why? I personally used 
links rated for a bit over half the weight of the vehicle on my previous car, 
and they held up, but got a little loose after two years of hard driving, 
autocross, and some street. 1/4 inch steel rod ends are rated for 1500-2500 
pounds (depending on alloy) and should work fine on most cars, but I would 
consider this an absolute minimum. On my STU(SM) car I used 5/16 for extra 
safety, since I was not sure of the alloy, they are still tight as new after 
3 years. For a CP monster, use 1/2 rod ends ;-)  

>From the Pegasus catalog, Aurora rod ends
low carbon rod ends male threaded shank, (the female ones are stronger)

1/4 in      2,158 lb    $10.99
5/16 in 2,784 lb    $11.99
3/8 in      3,915 lb    $12.99
7/16 in 4,218 lb    $14.99
1/2 in      6,660 lb    $16.99

Going up a size is cheap insurance.

Keep in mind the lever ratios and shock loading. If the sway bar connects at 
half the a-arm length, it sees double the force on the tire, and in high 
lean, it could be fighting the spring as well as the vehicle weight.

Gary M.

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