Kevin,
First you need to have an early flywheel SII or III [not a SI]and I
would take it to the machine shop and have them chuck it up in the brake
lath and peel a few pounds off it then balance the thing, they are
mighty heavy. The MGB pressure plate I have not bought one from a parts
house but just get the one for a carbon throw out bearing. The Volvo
disc I used was for a 140 series but the same disc was also used for a
bunch of other Volvos 240 and such it is 8 1/2 inch and a 1 inch 10
spline, when you go to the parts house this info will be listed in their
part description. The pivot block and arm will vary dependent on your
current trans and such. I have a all syncro SV and used the SV pivot
block and a SII arm and throw out bearing which is a bigger bearing than
the one used for the SV stock set up. The thing to do is check the
movement of the arm and be sure it releases before you put the engine
and trans back in which is something I failed to do and got to have
another go at it.... which is just loads of fun when you are standing
there looking at the darn thing and know it all has to come back out. I
am very pleased with this set up and the clutch is smooth and operates
well and has stood up to all the abuse I can give it. On the MG pressure
plate you may be able to get one from the local parts house but the
first one I ordered was the non carbon type same as the Volvo unit. I
think the Triumph and Rover cover will bolt on also but these are most
likely harder to get than the MG cover. Hope that helps let me know if
you need any other information and I will do my best to help you out.
Regards Jim
Kevin McLemore wrote:
>OK.. so to get this all down correctly (as I'm about to do an engine &
>clutch job myself)...
>
>>From what I've read here, we need an "early MGB" clutch cover (pressure
>plate)... Moss Motors lists two - they don't not seem to differentiate
>between early or late, but only list one cover, with a second listed as a
>'competition' cover:
>
> 190-080 -- $76.30 -- PRESSURE PLATE, new
> 190-810 -- $89.95 -- PRESSURE PLATE, heavy duty/competition
>
>Their illustration shows a carbon bush type throwout bearing, so I suspect
>either cover will do??
>
>http://www.mossmotors.com/cgi-bin/db2www/mossmotors/MossUSA/Shop/ViewProducts.mac/report?T=36265&ModelID=31000&PlateID=2481
>
>As for the cluch disc (driven plate), which specific Volvo model are we
>talking... is it for the B18 motors (122, P1800, etc)? Also, I haven't had
>my Series V apart for ages (+15 years!) so I don't recall if I have the
>coarse or fine spline input shaft on my OD tranny... is the Volvo plate
>coarse or fine?
>
>Part numbers would be helpful if anyone has them!
>
>Thanks to all -
>Kevin
>B395015623
>
>----Original Message Follows----
>From: Jarrid Gross <JGross@econolite.com>
>Reply-To: Jarrid Gross <JGross@econolite.com>
>To: Louis & Laila <bwana@c2i2.com>, Alkon <alkon@bigpond.com.au>, Alpine
>list <alpines@autox.team.net>
>Subject: RE: VOLVO Clutch
>Date: Mon, 27 Jan 2003 09:14:53 -0800
>
>Lou and piners,
>
>I had a 7.5 inch clutch (brand new) in a 1725 with stock mechanics, but
>running fuel injection. The added torque was all it needed to begin
>slipping the clutch at WOT. When the clutch begins to slip on its own, the
>result is a snowball effect, where the clutch gets hotter, slips a tad more,
>gets hotter slips a tad more, until you are puting all your engine power
>into smoke and heat.
>
>Why Rootes used that tiny clutch on the 1725 is beyond me. I use the 8 or 8
>1/2 inch now, but it is soooo heavy.
>
>Jarrid
>
>-----Original Message-----
>From: owner-alpines@autox.team.net
>[mailto:owner-alpines@autox.team.net]On Behalf Of Louis & Laila
>Sent: Monday, January 27, 2003 8:34 AM
>To: Alkon; Alpine list
>Subject: Re: VOLVO Clutch
>
>Keith,
>You are correct in that weight of the car affects the clutch life. It is
>equal with that of the torque of the engine. The coeifficent of friction,
>caused by the springs in the clutch and the "stickiness" of the disc, resist
>either the torque of the engine, or the weight of the car, which acts as
>torque through the drive line.
>
>The series 5 style clutch will slip when there is a great deal of torque
>from the engine. This slip translates into reduced performance, and
>increased wear. This has been proven by many people who race Alpines in the
>USA.
>
>It might also be noted that Rootes went to a different clutch for the H120
>and Holbay upgrades.
>
>I will use the series 5 style clutch when I can because I have lots (Lots!)
>of them. I wouldn't consider them for any performance application.
>
>Lou
>----- Original Message -----
>From: "Alkon" <alkon@bigpond.com.au>
>To: "Alpine list" <alpines@autox.team.net>
>Sent: Monday, January 27, 2003 3:17 AM
>Subject: Re: VOLVO Clutch
>
>The load on the clutch is not only a factor of horsepower. The weight of the
>vehicle has a large effect on clutch life. We used a small Ford zephyr
>clutch behind a high performance 283 Chev in a Mk 3 Zephyr driving through
>the original Ford four speed gearbox. This set up worked ok in the
>lightweight Zephyr but the same clutch and gearbox would not have survived
>if installed behind the same engine in a full size Chev.
>
>The Alpine is a small lightweight vehicle so I would expect clutch life to
>be sufficient to last untill the engine needed attention. I drove a 3.4
>Jaguar with manual box and quickly learned that slipping the clutch was a
>big "NO NO". The magic smoke escaped as quickly as foward propulsion ceased
>:-). Jag drivers manual says " for best acceleration off the line use about
>2000rpm, allow cluch to fully engage before flooring it" Slipping the clutch
>on normal changes is clutch abuse and does not improve performance. In fact
>driving the Jag taught me to allow all the bits of clutch/gearbox etc to
>work at their own pace. Fast gear changes never happened with the Jag (Moss)
>gearbox. A pause in neutral between gears always helped. The same technique
>in my 55 Californian means silent gearchanges occur, and gearbox bits don't
>fall in the bottom of the box :-))
>
>Australian car racing involves great races like Bathurst where "hard"
>drivers go quickly but often never finish because they break something.
>Rootes Australia entered the Humble Minx (badged as Sunbeam ) in the great
>race. It finished and put up lap times that I feel were nothing short of
>amazing considering that this was a stock unmodified sedan. I personally
>have learned the hard way about vehicle abuse. If it is broken I get to walk
>:-) so coaxing maximum performance without breaking anything has become
>second nature to me.
>
>The point that these Volvo parts are more readily available is a good one
>and adaptation of these parts should not be difficult, but to say that the
>substitution is needed because the original parts cannot take the power is
>not suffucient reason for me to make this change. In Australia I would
>simply adapt Holdem ( GM) parts as they are cheaply available where Volvo
>parts cost a premium in Australia.
>
>If he Rootes engine drivetrain is not holding together then it was not
>assembled correctly. I have rebuilt motors in my previous Hillmans and
>pushed them full throttle for up to 100miles without failures. We are
>talking about sitting on 6 -7000rpm for 20 miles at a stretch. To the
>extent the exhaust piping becomes more than red hot.
>
>I have gone on a bit here but the point I am trying to make is that the
>Standard Alpine drive train is more than capable of handling any amount of
>enthusiastic street use and a fair amount of classic racing use as well.
>
>Keith
>55 Californian
>56 Minx
>68 Hunter
>
>---- Original Message -----
>From: <ellis838@concentric.net>
>To: <alpines@autox.team.net>
>Sent: Monday, January 27, 2003 2:28 AM
>Subject: Re: VOLVO Clutch
>
>The MGB cover and Volvo plate works well is cheaper and easier to get, I
>also think the quality of the MG/Volvo parts is better. Sorting the
>combination of pivot block and release arm is the only difficult part. The 7
>inch Rootes plate seems to like to spit the springs out and the plates I
>have bought look like they were rebuilt in the back yard in grandpas spare
>time. I figure my 1725 is good for 130+hp and with the 205 tires I am not
>sure the stock 7 inch clutch could take the strain...
>Jim E
>
>Alkon wrote:
>
>The Volvo clutch throwout bearing is a ball race and runs on a guide tube
>around the gearbox input shaft. This type of clutch is totally incompatable
>with the Rootes carbon throwout bearing. If you want to use the Volvo clutch
>pressure plate then a guide tube and the correct type of throwout bearing
>must be used. This work is really fairly simple to do and made easier if you
>can steal the right parts off a Volvo. I have done this adaptation to couple
>a Jag box to a Chrysler Hemi V8.
>
>Unless you use dragracer clutch techniques. (7000rpm and step off the
>clutch.) then the Rootes supplied item will handle anything that your 1600
>or 1725 engine can deliver.
>
>Keith
>
>_________________________________________________________________
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