Well, I think what I will do is take a 1600 short block that I have that
water leaked down from the corroded head (sound familiar?) and just use that
crank, bore the engine out to .060 over, whatever this one was, then just
transfer the parts. I do know one thing, I am going to get my main bearing
caps machined to take a thrust washer also so I can prevent this type of
catastrophic disaster from happening again. Getting the crank welded then
machined is about $125 and I imagine the block would be the same for a total
of $250. Not really worth it to me when I have "a few" engines sitting
around. The good thing is that one block will go in the trash, and one will
be removed from the stack the ole lady has recently began to complain about.
Remarkably enough, the engine had fantastic oil pressure until the clutch
was depressed! about 50 PSI. I figure the crank moved so far, that the hole
in the crank that would transport the oil was out of the groove blocking
flow. Lou
----- Original Message -----
From: <CANISDOG@aol.com>
To: <bwana@c2i2.com>; <alpines@autox.team.net>
Sent: Saturday, January 25, 2003 7:05 PM
Subject: Re: Great news on my Alpine today
> This is the same condition I found in my Series 3 GT when I purchased it
and
> took the engine in for the machine work. I wanted to keep the original
> engine but I chose to find a 1700 instead.
>
> However, the machine shop (race builders) told me they could repair it by
> building those two surfaces up and then machining it back to original.
MUCH
> more $$$ though, as you can imagine. I had all kinds of metal in the oil.
> It looked like matalic paint!!
>
> It is possible and if this baby runs so well you might think about it.!!
>
> Paul
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