The ziplock idea is one I learned last year when I started rebuilding my 59
VW and is a great one! I also like the idea of pre-purchasing screws and
bolts. I must have missed that message (only been on the list for a couple
of weeks). I know there are a few Alpine sources for stuff like this... any
one in particular?
The biggest problem I'm going to have is a bashed in rear left quarter
panel. I've never done body work and certainly nothing of this scope. I
was told years ago (the first time I owned this car) that a competent body
shop had to weld a new panel in place. And competent is the key word.
The rest of the car I think I can do myself over time. At least most of the
pieces are still with me aside from a bumper and a few replacement lenses.
The dash padding is totally shot, but I guess that's pretty common. The
dash itself is in pretty good shape. My brother (who had the car for the
past 15-20 years) bought a complete carpet set for it so I'll be able to
clean out the interior and redo panels, etc., and fix that up pretty well.
I appreciate the feedback! Hopefully the Midget will be running in a week
or less and I can turn my attention to the Alpine ;-))
Bill
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-alpines@autox.team.net
[mailto:owner-alpines@autox.team.net]On Behalf Of Mark Burkley
Sent: Thursday, May 30, 2002 8:06 AM
To: Bill Tubbs; List, Alpine
Subject: Re: Restoration sequence
Bill-
Jerome's pages are very thorough. Its worth a look. If your interior is
shot, you can do a heck of a job without a full frame off. My recommendation
is buy a box or two of zip-lock bags, some masking tape and a magic marker.
It took me about two full days to really strip the car and I just popped
screws and components into zip locks and labeled them. Saved me later. You
may wish to consider purchasing the stainless steel screw and bolts set
mentioned on the list. I made many runs down to the local hardware and in
retrospect, it would have been nice to have it all available at once. I also
bought a great deal of nylon washers to protect the new paint and make the
job a snap because so often you have to undo and re-do an item many times
before its finally done.When the car is fairly stripped, check the harness
thoroughly before you get back into re-assembly. These harnesses car wear
and cause "funny" or annoying issues. They can also cause fire so a
preventative look through is well worth the effort. It is also a great time
to lubricate, adjust and fasten all the little things that have worn. Its
nice when doors close firmly, snuggly, and with little effort or rattle. Its
amazing what ten minutes of tinkering on a door can do. I swear the engine
runs better when the car is clean and adjusted. Can't figure that one out.
The danger is a partial so often turns into a full when you get into it.
Have patience and good luck.
Mark B
----- Original Message -----
From: "Bill Tubbs" <piperbill@isp01.net>
To: "List, Alpine" <alpines@autox.team.net>
Sent: Wednesday, May 29, 2002 10:12 PM
Subject: Restoration sequence
> As soon as I get my 79 Midget running with the correct carb (read: stupid
> California smog gear), I'm going to start tackling my 67 Alpine. It's a
> real basket case as far as looks. The only good thing is that there is
only
> surface rust and a pretty clean structure. The down side is the body
needs
> LOTS of work and I need a complete interior rebuild.
>
> Is there a logical sequence to tackling an Alpine project? I don't plan
(at
> this time) on stripping it down entirely and dunking the frame. Rather,
> I'll probably strip as much gear off of it as I can and just clean and
paint
> it myself so as to get it on the road again. Maybe in a future life I'll
> afford to do it "right".
>
> Are there some Alpine owner restoration pages that are of note? Anyone
here
> have some digital photos of their project they'd like to share (publically
> or privately)??
>
> Thanks!
>
> Bill Tubbs
> Carmichael, California
> http://tubbs.cc/alpine
|