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Jay,
I have experienced this situation also. I just keep a spare ignition =
switch in the trunk. I have taken the switch apart before and cleaned the =
contacts. This works for a little bit of time if the contacts are not too =
burnt, but I end up replacing the switch.
Regards,
Robert
-----Original Message-----
From: Jay Snavely <jaystr8@comcast.net>
Sent: Jul 7, 2022 7:40 PM
To: <6pack@autox.team.net>
Subject: [6pack] TR6 Ignition Switch failures
I have just replaced the electrical switch part of the ignition switch on =
my 72 TR6, for the 2nd time in 2 years. Both switches were genuine Lucas =
parts. LU39415 The car has been driven a couple hundred miles during this=
period. I am wondering if there might be a situation with the car that is=
causing the failures? The wiring is pretty much stock, with a new harness=
15 years ago. I did add a voltmeter a few years ago, but retained the =
ammeter. And added a circuit breaker in the headlight circuit. There was a=
burnt brown wire under the dash feeding power to the light switch, but I =
could not figure out if there was a problem or a dirty connector causing it=
to over heat. Is there any reason to add a relay? There doesn’t =
seem to be that much current in the red/white wire going to the starter =
solenoid. Thanks.
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<div style=3D"color:rgb(0, 0, 0);font-family:arial,sans-serif;font-size:12p=
t"><p style=3D"margin: 0.1rem 0; line-height: 1.0;" =
data-signature-line=3D"true">Jay,</p>
<p style=3D"margin: 0.1rem 0; line-height: 1.0;" data-signature-line=3D"tru=
e"> </p>
<p style=3D"margin: 0.1rem 0; line-height: 1.0;" data-signature-line=3D"tru=
e">I have experienced this situation also. I just keep a spare =
ignition switch in the trunk. I have taken the switch apart before =
and cleaned the contacts. This works for a little bit of time if the =
contacts are not too burnt, but I end up replacing the switch.</p>
<p style=3D"margin: 0.1rem 0; line-height: 1.0;" data-signature-line=3D"tru=
e"> </p>
<p style=3D"margin: 0.1rem 0; line-height: 1.0;" data-signature-line=3D"tru=
e">Regards,</p>
<p style=3D"margin: 0.1rem 0; line-height: 1.0;" data-signature-line=3D"tru=
e"> </p>
<p style=3D"margin: 0.1rem 0; line-height: 1.0;" data-signature-line=3D"tru=
e">Robert</p>
</div><div style=3D"color:rgb(0, 0, 0);font-family:arial,=
sans-serif;font-size:12pt"></div>
<div class=3D"elnk-inline-message-container" style=3D"border-left: 1px =
solid #aaa; box-sizing: border-box; padding: 10px 0 10px 15px; margin: =
0;">
<p>-----Original Message-----<br>From: Jay Snavely <jaystr8@comcast.=
net><br>Sent: Jul 7, 2022 7:40 PM<br>To: <6pack@autox.team.=
net><br>Subject: [6pack] TR6 Ignition Switch failures</p>
<p style=3D"margin: 0.1rem 0; line-height: 1.0;"> </p>
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<div class=3D"WordSection1">
<p class=3D"MsoNormal"><span style=3D"font-family: Calibri; font-size: =
small;"><span style=3D"font-size: 11.0pt;">I have just replaced the =
electrical switch part of the ignition switch on my 72 TR6, for the =
2<sup>nd</sup> time in 2 years. Both switches were genuine Lucas =
parts. LU39415 The car has been driven a couple hundred miles =
during this period. I am wondering if there might be a situation with=
the car that is causing the failures? The wiring is pretty much =
stock, with a new harness 15 years ago. I did add a voltmeter a few =
years ago, but retained the ammeter. And added a circuit breaker in =
the headlight circuit. There was a burnt brown wire under the dash feeding =
power to the light switch, but I could not figure out if there was a =
problem or a dirty connector causing it to over heat. Is there any =
reason to add a relay? There doesn=E2=80=99t seem to be that much =
current in the red/white wire going to the starter solenoid. Thanks.=
</span></span></p>
</div>
</div>
<p style=3D"margin: 0.1rem 0; line-height: 1.=
0;"> </p>
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